Latin Cuisine
October 1, 2004
I doubt that anyone who is reading this article has never sat down and enjoyed a meal of Mexican food, savoring the smells and tastes of enchiladas, tacos, burritos and the rest of the fare that makes up this cuisine. Americans truly enjoy these foods, which are embedded into our way of eating. These wonderful, spicy foods were only the first step in a Latin-flavor revolution that's become an unstoppable force in the United States. As Latin communities continue to grow in this country, their residents bring the culture, foods and cooking styles of their homelands with them. Latin cuisine has survived that trendy food stage and is now a mainstay of American cooking. The average American consumer also drives the Latin-cuisine craze. I've discovered that, once introduced to a new food or cuisine, they very quickly demand not just good taste, appearance and value, but also authenticity. Consumers want the food to truly represent its country of origin; they're looking for the real deal. A tour of South and Central America, along with Mexico and the Caribbean, reveals a wide diversity in ingredients, flavors and cuisines. A wide cross-section of ethnic backgrounds influences each country's foods. And although a common thread of ingredients runs throughout the Latin American regions, each country's cuisine differs based on its history, culture and people. South America's size and history gives its cuisine diverse foods, seasonings, ethnic influences and food-preparation methods. The native peoples of that continent, for the most part, prepare main dishes either as slow-cooking stews or by roasting them over an open fire. When the Europeans settled there, they brought their cooking techniques (i.e., slow-roasting and sautéing) with them, and introduced the use of sauces. An example of this Spanish influence is found in one of the basic condiments found throughout South America, sofrito, a mixture of herbs and vegetables added to dishes to give a savory, smooth flavor. South America's largest country, Brazil, lies in the northeastern part. It occupies nearly half of South America and borders every country except Chile and Ecuador. Unlike its neighbors, more than 60% of Brazil's population is of European descent, and the official language is Portuguese. This diversity gives Brazil a unique cooking style. Adding to basics, such as beans, potatoes and corn, the Portuguese brought wine and rice, which gave foods a Mediterranean flair. Dried, salted cod from Portuguese cooking is now a staple despite Brazil's large fishing industry. During the dark days of the slave trade, various African ingredients blended into South American cuisine: okra, hot peppers and dende oil, a dense, yellow oil extracted from an African palm. Their contribution was so profound that African slaves were sought after as the best cooks. This led to Brazil giving birth to Creole cuisine, which eventually spread to the Caribbean and into southern parts of North America. Brazil's African influence is strongest in Bahia, a region located on the coast near the port of Salvador. Slaves first entered the country there, and their culture and cuisine remains prominent. Bahia is famous for its hot malagueta peppers and its use of coconut oil. African flavors dominate the region's very rich dishes. It's also known for its sweet dessert dishes, such as coconut custard. Moving south into Argentina, people base much of the cuisine on the country's livestock industry, especially cattle. Beef is one of the mainstays, and Argentineans often serve it at all three meals. Cheese made from cow's milk -- as well as sheep's and goat's milk -- is very popular, along with flans, puddings and custards. The rich soil and mild climate allow for plentiful fruits, from apples and pears to pineapples, grapes, and cherries, consumed fresh, in fruit jams, and with cheeses that serve as a finish to meals. Besides the variety of meats cooked over open fires, other common dishes include empanadas (meat-filled pastries) and matambre (a braised, rolled steak with vegetable stuffing). Although Spanish is the major ethnic influence, you'll also find Italian overtones, such as a wide use of pasta, in a variety of dishes and ingredients. Chile, with its 2,600-mile coastline and its fertile valleys in the north, provides for a cuisine based on the eating habits of its native people and the large number of immigrants who trace their roots back to Central Europe, primarily Germany. For example, German-influenced curanto, or Chilean stew, consists of layers of meat, sausage and cabbage baked slowly in an oven. Chile also is known for pebre sauce, a household standard used as a condiment. Moving up into the north and northwestern parts of South America, the main influences are Spanish with some hints of African. Here, along the coastal jungles, you'll find the most recognizable South American ingredients, including bananas, coconuts, yuca (also called cassava and manioc), potatoes and plantains. Coffee also grows in the north, and the meat is usually lean, grass-fed beef, pork and chicken. And, as in most counties in South America, squashes, gourds, corn and beans make up the mainstay of the diet. Besides being the most recognizable Latin cuisine, Mexican food is where the heat is. Although you'll find spicy foods throughout Latin America and the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America use chiles in their cuisine the most. As mentioned, we've probably all enjoyed the taste of Mexican foods like tacos, burritos and enchiladas. However, the truth is that these dishes are not authentic Mexican cuisine; they're really "Tex-Mex." Originating in San Antonio, Tex-Mex combines traditional Mexican fare with regional Texas cuisine derived from a variety of ethnic influences from Germany, Spain and people from all over the United States. The heavy, rich cuisine was ideal for the area's many cowboys and ranchers. It was high in calories and provided a good-tasting source of vitamins and nutrients to the hard-working people. Travel south into Mexico and the foods and tastes begin to take on more of the country's traditional cuisine. The cooking is based on the Aztec and Mayan civilizations, and the ingredients are much the same, but the herbs and dishes take on a Spanish and Mediterranean style. The big change that the Spaniards brought beyond their herbs and seasonings was their cattle, hogs and poultry. Although Spanish and native cultures dominate in Mexico, some French herbs, and Austrian sausages and beers, accent the cooking. In a small pocket on the Pacific Coast near Acapulco you'll find a Filipino influence, evidenced by the use of ginger and vinegars. Each Mexican region's cuisine varies, mostly based on available ingredients. Many regions make dishes that have the same name, but different ingredients. For example, tamales are made with cornhusks in the north, while in the south, they more likely are wrapped in banana leaves. Another example is tortillas. In most of Mexico, people make tortillas from corn, but in some areas, like near the Pacific coast, they make tortillas from wheat. Still, all through Mexico, staples such as rice, beans, cumin, garlic and chiles abound. One distinction in Mexican cuisine is its use of moles. Originating in Puebla, traditional mole is a dark, reddish-brown sauce often served with poultry. Today, each region makes its own version. Moles include chiles, tomatoes, seeds, spices and chocolate and make a good base for cooking meats and some vegetables. This rich, thick paste gives foods a deep, authentic Mexican flavor. Central American cuisine closely follows that of its Spanish and Mexican heritage. Belize has a British influence, but the main scope of its cuisine still follows its Mayan and Spanish history. Fiery peppers distinguish the cooking of this region, along with tropical fruits and peanuts. The interior areas depend on beans and nuts for protein along with small animals -- and the occasional iguana. The seacoast regions boast abundant seafood prepared in stews, grilled or pickled raw in citrus ceviches. And like other areas of Latin America, Central America enjoys rich desserts, such as flan and custards. The Caribbean's vibrant foods and flavors are unique in the world. To me, Caribbean cooking is Latin cooking with its lights on. Two major influences set the tone for Caribbean cuisine. The English brought the seasonings and cooking techniques along with flavors from all over the world, including the most important one, curry. The Spaniards brought their meats, rice and a Mediterranean influence. African, Lebanese, Chinese and Portuguese immigrants also brought their ingredients and cooking styles. Native to the islands are many spices and chile peppers, the most common of which is the Scotch bonnet, a fiery pepper with a fruity note. Many fruits are native to the Caribbean as well, including pineapple, papaya, guava, mango and coconut, which all found their way into sweet and savory dishes. Islanders usually stew meats with vegetables or marinate them in spices for grilling over fires, like Jamaican jerks and barbacoas. Goat meat is favored, although today beef, pork and chicken claim a large share of the market. One marinade/sauce that best exemplifies the marriage of Caribbean ingredients is mojo. Although made differently from island to island, the base typically features citrus, garlic and olive oil. The people use this sauce liberally to add a wonderful taste to meats and vegetables. Despite plentiful fresh seafood, many islanders prefer using dried, salted cod in dishes -- as in many parts of Latin America -- due to the first explorers using salted and pickled meats, like pork and beef. Unique vegetables also thrive in the islands, such as breadfruit, plantains, chayote and boniato, a type of squash known as the Caribbean sweet potato, which has a white flesh and is much starchier that its American cousin. Other roots include the potato-like malanga, which people often cook in stews. These vegetables make up more than half of the caloric intake in the islands. Cuisines differ throughout the islands, with each one unique in its own right. Cuba features home-style dishes that often are slow-cooked and influenced by Spanish, African and Asian cuisines. Puerto Rico combines a salty and sweet flavor, like raisins and olives, in its foods. And let's not forget Jamaica, known for its hot and spicy meats and stews, as well as for using coconut milk in both sweet and savory dishes. The exciting news is that the foods and flavors of these countries are becoming more and more available to consumers. New Latin restaurants open all the time, and they feature national dishes prepared from authentic recipes with authentic ingredients. Even today's prepared foods offer ready-made Latin options that closely mimic the real thing. The United States even has its own Mecca for Latin cuisine -- Florida. Latin immigrants from around the world have settled there and have brought their cuisine and cooking styles with them. In fact, it has influenced the foods of the state so much that the term "Floribbean" now describes the wonderful mix of cuisine. That's not to say you can't find pockets of Latin food in almost every medium-to-large city in the nation. They exist, and it's getting easier to find them if you know where to look. To discover authentic inspiration, the secret is to find someone from that country or region and find out where they go to eat and where they take their families when they go out. Asking at the front desk of a hotel will usually get you a place that is trendy, sterile and inauthentic. So step out and take an adventure in Latin cuisine. Get away from the chains and find that crowded little family-owned place where the menu is not even in English. Trust me, the owners will gladly help you with your order. Before long, you'll be hooked on this vibrant way of eating. |
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