Spains Culinary Terrain

Spanish cuisine has already begun to assume its place as a mainstay in the United States. As this process continues, Americans will develop a familiarity with everyday Spanish ingredients, as new foods highlighting those ingredients hit the market.

Ingredients to applications

No one ingredient or dish can sum up Spanish cuisine, as it makes use of a wide range of ingredients:

Spain is praised for well-known dishes like escabeche, similar to ceviche except the seafood is poached or fried before marinating in a mixture of vinegar and/or citrus juices, onion, and spices under refrigeration for several hoursand sometimes up to a day or two. Arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) is meant to be simple, but can be prepared in any way imaginablegreat for lower-income shoppers who want a change in flavor at an affordable cost. Gazpacho is a cold soup made with stale bread, garlic, olive oil, salt and vinegar. Romesco sauce, a light, but intensely flavored, purée of stock or au jus, roasted or broiled tomatoes and sweet peppers, garlic, almonds, hazelnuts, olive oil, sherry or red-wine vinegar, and bread, often accents tapas and entrées. Another favorite, paella, is a Valencian rice dish made with saffron and a variety of local ingredients.

Paella is to Spaniards what gumbo is to Cajuns. Traditionally, it can be made up of whatever people have to spare in the fridge, or carefully constructed to represent specific flavors and textures. Over time, several versions have evolved. In coastal regions, seafood paella reigns. Ingredients in this type include mussels, shrimp and squid. In regions where chorizo is prizedsuch as Extremadura in western Spainit is the main ingredient, sometimes coupled with chicken. The chorizo gives the paella a smoky flavor, as well as adding rich color (in addition to the saffron). Vegetarian variations of paella might contain Spanish sweet onions, fresh peas, tomatoes, garlic and whatever else may be on hand.

One common ingredient to all paella is rice. The bomba rice traditionally used in paella is a medium-grain, starchy rice that absorbs liquids well, but remains firm during cooking. Other medium-grain rice types available through Hispanic suppliers as well as Italian Arborio rice, are suitable alternates.

Regardless of the ingredients, the cooking process is the same. This is where your choice of rice will make a difference. Traditionally, a paella pan (paellera), a flat, round, thin, stainless-steel pan with splayed sides and two handles, is used; cast-iron skillets and similar heavy pans should be avoided since they retain too much heat. The rice needs to cook in a thin layer at the bottom of the pan. The aromaticsthe vegetable base flavors of the paella, like a sofrito mixture of tomato, onion and garlic, as well as spicesare sautéed, then meats added (if using seafood, it is added last). Then add the rice and liquid. The rice is steamed and infused with all of the incumbent flavors of the dish and is not cooked ahead of time.

With gazpacho, the key is the Spanish olive oil, with its generally fruitier flavor than Italian types, which helps control the entire flavor profile of the soup. The ingredients are combined, and texture is controlled by puréeing half of the combination for a thick, flavorful soup.

Romesco sauces consistency is often thick enough for spreading, but it can be manipulated as desired and used in countless applications. It is often served as a dipping sauce with poultry and seafood.

The possibilities of combinations and applications for these ingredients are endless and only limited by imagination.

Location, location, location

In northern Spain, in the Galicia region, we find lots of sauces and seafood like mussels, crayfish, scallops, clams, turbot, sardines, oysters and sea bass. The Galican region is also the worlds largest producer of mussels. Further inland, parsnips and potatoes are common, and the most important meat is beef, eaten very young as veal. In the Asturias region, they favor dishes that require slow cooking over a low heat. The coastal area is known for its seafood, and particularly fabada asturiana, a rich stew made with large white beans, pork shoulder, black sausage (morcilla), spicy chorizo and saffron. In the Pyrenees, sautéed peppers, tomatoes and onions accompany many of the regions dishes. One dish, escalivada, is normally served as a main dish, but would be more of a side dish in America. The special characteristic of these roasted vegetables is their smoky flavor, since tradition demands roasting them over embers. The word escalivar means to cook in hot ashes.

In the Cataluña (Catalan) region, pasta dishes and casseroles with seafood abound, as well as accompaniments, such as sautéed Swiss chard with raisins and pine nuts, bursting with flavor, texture and nutrients. In the Eastern region, the primary dishes are rice-based, like the popular paella Valenciana. In the Andalusian region, fried fish is a staple. Basque region, the natives rely heavily on the sea, where the use of squid and its ink are prized, as is bacalhau (dried, salted cod). Sea-food selections include sole, sea bass, red snapper, anchovies, prawns, crab, crayfish and sardines. Sea salt is widely used, and any frying uses olive oil. Also enjoyed in this region are pintxos (or pinchos). These tiny morsels of foodsuch as codfish or merluzas (various preparations of hake)often on small slices of bread, are served on platters in a buffet style as appetizers.

In Central Spain, roast meats and stews dominate the diet. In Cantabria, Tudanca beef is noted for its leanness and juiciness. Additionally, there is a variety of Cantabrian game, such as venison, roe deer and wild boar. The most popular dish in this region is pollo campurriano, a chickenand- rice entrée that might work well in America. Salt and pepper seasoned chicken is covered with paprika, fried, and then simmered in chicken stock and white wine with ham, red and green bell peppers, Spanish onion, and garlic.

Although not a region per se, the Balaeric Islands hold the key to delectable pastries called empanadas, often made with seafood fillings, as well as sobrasada, a spreadable sausage made from black pig, fresh cheeses, gin, and salted and fried Marcona almonds. Marcona almonds have a softer texture than California almonds and a milky flavor, making them a standout ingredient in Spanish dishes.

Have a taste

Tapas includes a wide variety of small-portion appetizers common to Spanish cuisineand a foodies dream come true. The word comes from the noun tapa, which means cover. Originally, it referred to a slice of bread placed over a wine glass to prevent fruit flies from entering between sips.

Conceptually, tapas-style cuisine has been meandering its way into American culture for several years now. It is taking over the happy hour scene in restaurants and bars alike, and spans from brunch to dinner, depending on the establishment. Typically, in Spain, you would enter a restaurant or bar and nibble on small portions of chorizo, blood sausage (if you dare...), cheese, almonds, bread and olive oil while enjoying a nice Spanish wine, cold beer or other beverage. The intention is not to eat to satiety, rather to enjoy your company over a fun, light meal.

Tapas foods are a great way to introduce Spanish cuisine to the American public. Next to the Greek salad in the deli section could sit an authentic Spanish tapas combo, salad or platter, or yet another combination could be made for the fresh refrigerated section with the appropriate processing and packaging. For those who are not familiar with Spanish cuisine and are curious enough to try, tapas is the perfect way to sample culinary selections of Spain in one or two courses.

This is a great way for customers to decide which aspects of the cuisine meet their expectations and develop likes or dislikes for certain ingredients. Some common tapas include:

Tapas selections also often include olives, various types of sausages and cheeses, and anchovies.

Coming to a grocer near you

Some tapas items, such as albóndigas, and breaded and fried Spanish cheeses, could be manufactured and sold in the freezer section. Spanish breads, like pan de horno, as well as cured Spanish meats, might also do well in retail. For a fresher approach, cold tapas, like marinated cheese and olives, might be packaged and sold as a duo for lunch or a light snack, and would be perfect for entertaining. Tomato-based romesco could be seen as an alternative to traditional Italian red saucesand processed in the same manner.

Naturally cured serrano ham could be marketed as an alternative to Italian prosciutto or bacon. However, one issue that arises with serrano ham is cost. The average cost for this imported cured meat is upward of $12 per lb. Manufacturers may want to consider making an American version of cured ham that captures the traditional serrano flavoroften described as rich and nutty, and less salty than American ham or prosciuttoto differentiate it from other cured hams.

The bold flavors of Spanish cuisine open the door for use of natural antimicrobials like rosemary-oil extract, olive- leaf extract, cinnamic acid and eugenol (clove oil) where the flavors of these ingredients are often welcome.

Expect to see more Spanish cheeses available in the future, as well. Queso de Valdeón could easily form the basis of a Spanish blue-cheese salad dressing. The natural cultures and processing of these cheeses using pasteurized cows milk (the Spanish version does not use pasteurized milk) is not much different from those we currently find at retail.

As the American consumer population changes with baby boomers getting older, DINKs (dual income, no kids) with more disposable income than in the past, and empty nesters finding their international flair, consumers are looking for the next cuisine to dig into. Spanish cuisine could very well be it. With all of the health benefits, culinary possibilities and potential pricing that doesnt exclude anyone, Spanish meals will soon hit more menusas well as local grocers and, subsequently, more homes.