All-Natural Bars: The Challenges

By Cindy Hazen, Contributing Editor

Food formulators know the trials of creating a product that meets marketing objectives and consumer acceptance. Experience can help them foresee some of the potential snags that might arise on the lab bench or the supermarket shelf, but even experience cant meet the goal if the target is moving.

We cant guarantee that marketing and consumers will not be fickle, but we can offer some guidance to developing a natural bar.

Sea change

Not too long ago, a bar made from granola, corn syrup and a few other nonartificial ingredients could be considered natural. Today, the question of what constitutes a natural product is in flux.

For one, there isnt a standard definition of "natural" for products that are subject to FDA jurisdiction. USDA offers guidance for meat and poultry, but the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) is silent on all nonmeat foods, except for flavorings and colorings (21 CFR 101.22). The decision to make a natural claim is left to individual manufacturing companies. Food scientists will look at the raw materials; marketing will try to forecast the consumers interpretation.

Thats where trouble lies. Many consumers equate a products naturalness" with the degree that the food is processed. The actual ingredients or raw materials might not come into play, unless theyve gotten a bad rap in the media, like high fructose corn syrup (Were all going to die of obesity!) and the color carmine/cochineal (Bugs in our food!). Plus theres a pervasive attitude of, If we cant pronounce it or find it in Grandmas pantry, its not natural." Add a few lawyers into this mix of sensational journalism and righteous consumers, and the muddy waters start roiling.

For example, General Mills Nature Valley brand, makers of the first granola bar introduced in 1975, is under attack. In a class-action lawsuit filed by Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI), two California women accuse the company of deceptive marketing of its granola bars and thins as natural" when they contain or contained, substantial quantities of non-natural, highly processed ingredients, such as HFCS (high fructose corn syrup), HMCS (high maltose corn syrup) and maltodextrin (maltodextrin and rice maltodextrin)."

The lawsuit, dated July 26, 2012, contends that HFCS, HMCS and maltodextrin are factory-produced ingredients created by complex processing, and do not occur in nature. The term 'Natural' only applies to those products that contain no artificial or synthetic ingredients and consist entirely of ingredients that are only minimally processed," says the argument.

The case even takes exception with this longstanding brand because The name 'Nature Valley' itself directly conjures up images of naturalness."

By this logic, the name Whole Foods, as in Whole Foods Market, could be expected to sell only whole, unprocessed foods. However, many of their products are produced and packed in factories. As an aid to vendors, its website publishes a list of ingredients it considers unacceptable for food. Maltodextrin is not on this list, nor is HMCS. This goes to show that even within the natural" food market there is ambiguity.

Because these issues all come into play when formulating a bar described as natural, consulting with marketing and legal departments to define ingredient parameters might be a wise first move.

The ties that bind

Bars are basically handfuls of ingredients like nuts, grains, proteins and fruits stuck together in a sweet matrix. Thats where syrups come in. They sweeten the blend and they bind the ingredients into a stable form. A binding syrup can include sugars such as sucrose (often as cane juice" for a more-natural label), brown sugar, molasses, and honey, but there are other options.

For example, rice syrup is a label-friendly choice. John Ashby, general manager, ingredients, California Natural Products, Lathrop, CA, says his company makes rice syrups with natural enzymes to liquefy the carbohydrates. Insoluble components, including most of the protein and fiber, are filtered out. The amounts remaining in the syrup are not nutritionally significant but do affect the way the syrup blend interacts with water," he says. "Significantly, the fat remains in the syrup. This fat is also not nutritionally significant, but is extremely functionally significant, because this fat is the rice bran oil, which is a very powerful emulsifier. This oil is perfectly distributed throughout the syrup, homogenized throughout the matrix, so that it has powerful actions in the food product and provides better binding, better shelf life and better humectancy than can a syrup that is only carbohydrates."

The  same process can produce conventional as well as organic rice syrups, Ashby notes processes that use acids or bases for syrup production are often considered to be not natural, whereas the action of the natural enzymes are considered to be a natural process."

Rice syrups are not as sweet as sugar or HFCS. They are in the neighborhood of 60% as sweet as sugar," Ashby says. We can create very sweet syrups by blending them with stevia."

What about using HFCS, the ingredient that is falling under much scrutiny, in products marketed as natural"? John S. White, Ph.D., nutritional biochemist and president, White Technical Research, scientific consultant to Corn Refiners of America, says: Product developers looking to sweeten 'all-natural bars' should give serious consideration to high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS). FDA staff has clarified that they would not object if HFCS-containing products were to be labeled as 'natural.' HFCS enhances moisture control, retards spoilage and extends the product freshness of granola, breakfast bars and energy bars.  It also provides soft texture and enhances spice and fruit flavors."

A study conducted in April 2011 by Mintel Research Consultancy, Chicago, found that 17% of consumers were trying to avoid sugar or added sugar." Only 4% indicated they were avoiding HFCS; 25% were not avoiding any ingredients.

While its important in an all-natural bar to choose sweeteners with a wholesome image, sometimes its also helpful to meet yet another consumer sticking pointno added sugar.

Fruits are naturally sweetened with fructose and glucose in ratios that vary depending on the fruit. Fructose is 1.3 times sweeter than sucrose. Glucose is 70% as sweet. Because sweetness is inherent in the fruit, its possible to minimize sugar levels in a formulation and move sugar lower on the ingredient legend. Look to 21 CFR 101.60 for specific guidance for no-added-sugar claims. Concentrated fruit juices are prohibited.

Functionally speaking, however, the naturalness is likely in the eye of the beholder. Kevin Holland, Ph.D., product developer, Tree Top, Inc., Selah, WA, suggests using fruit juice concentrates and purées as a portion of the binding syrup. Choose fruit based on the color and/or flavor attributes you want in the  product. Pear, for example, is lighter in color and milder in fruit flavor than dark sweet cherry.

Different forms of fruit can be used in bars. The developer needs to decide whether they want the whole fruit nutrition (such as from purées and dices) and what kind of piece identity is desired," says Holland. Its important to keep in mind the amount of moisture these contain in order to adjust additions to achieve a particular moisture."

This is critical, because bar hardening and shelf life are directly related to water activity. Its important to manage the amount of moisture in the bar, as well as the movement of water in the bar matrix.

Fruit can enhance texture and the perception of moisture from their natural sugars," Holland continues. Fructose and glucose tend to act as plasticizers and can soften textures in formulas."

 Drum-dried fruit flakes can be used in several ways. If used as a topical application, then they will have some piece identity, basically fruit sprinkles," Holland says. Drum-dried flakes can also be blended with the other dry ingredients and become an invisible source of sweetness and fruit servings. Another fruit ingredient that can be used in natural bar formulations are dried apple dices. They come in several moisture levels to match any application and can also be infused with additional sweetness. These pieces have the largest piece identity among all these options."

Not all binders are sweet or contain sugars. Mindi McKibbin, supervisor, edible technical services, Gelita North America, Sergeant Bluff, IA, recommends incorporating collagen peptides in all-natural bars. Even in low concentrations, collagen peptides are excellent adhesives, binding dry substances together," she says. Because of these exceptional binding properties, the use of collagen peptides often reduces or eliminates the use of sugar, improving the overall nutritional value of the finished bar or allowing for higher concentrations of other good-for-you ingredients. 

In bar formulations that use a combination of collagen peptides and sugar, the collagen peptides allow for a soft and chewy texture and even prevent recrystallization of the sugar. "In bars without sugar, like salty or spicy bars, collagen peptides offer a differentiated crunchy texture," McKibbin says.

In protein bars, collagen peptides offer the same technological advantages, but feature added nutritional and sensorial properties. Collagen peptides, when blended with other protein sources, yield a malleable and soft bar," McKibbin says. "The collagen peptides act as a humectant, binding the water and thus extending the shelf-life. As a highly purified protein source, these collagen peptidesespecially when compared to comparable plant-based proteinsfeature the most neutral taste."

Collagen peptides dissolve easily in cold water, contain no cholesterol or fat, are nonallergenic and offer high digestibility. Gelita considers collagen peptides [gelatin hydrolysates] to be a natural ingredient, and a natural, GRAS source of protein," she says.

Nutty contributions

Nuts are widely recognized as natural, and peanuts and peanut butter are as all-American as apple pie. When you add peanuts, peanut butter or peanut flour to a product, consumers will recognize that as an ingredient and appreciate a real food as opposed to an additive that could be perceived as unnatural," says Sherry Coleman Collins, MS, RD, LD, National Peanut Board, Atlanta. Peanuts are a superfood, she says, with more than 30 vitamins and nutrients. With 7 grams per serving, they have more protein than any nut," she says.

Peanuts and peanut products can be incorporated into bars in many different ways. The most common are as peanut butter, roasted peanuts, granulated, chopped, as peanut flour or as a peanut flavor based on roasted peanut oil or extract," says Bruce Kotz, vice president, marketing/specialty products, Golden Peanut Company, Alpharetta, GA. Layered bars have become very popular; therefore, peanut butter and peanut flour have increased in popularity for this application. Peanuts will add texture and crunch, while peanut flour will help stabilize excess oil and fat in the formulation while lowering total fat, boosting protein and improving flavor."

Almonds are another natural option to boost flavor and nutrition. In formulation and production strategies, we know that ingredient variety is essential. With more available forms than almost any other tree nut (whole, sliced, slivered, diced, meal, flour, milk, paste, butter and oil), almonds are an incredibly versatile tool for building texture and flavor," offers Harbinder Maan, manager, North America ingredient and category marketing, Almond Board of California, Modesto, CA.

Almonds have 6 grams protein and are an excellent source of vitamin E, with 7.4 mg per 1-oz. serving.

Building body

Whole or minimally processed grains rank high in natural food desirability. Natural bars are most likely to contain rolled oats as the primary ingredient, namely because of sensory characteristics of appearance, taste and texture, ingredient cost, shelf life and nutritional attributes," says Bill Bonner, senior technical advisor, Viterra/21C Oats, Inc., Kansas City, MO. This is quickly followed by other whole and ancient flaked grainsincluding wheat, rye, barley, kamut and speltchia seeds, almonds and similar grains, nuts and seeds. An expanded whole-grain crisp is more than likely included for textural design in a bar." 

The challenge in delivering grains in different formats centers on maintaining visual identity or communicating whole-grain perception. The more the visual, the more the believability to the consumer," Bonner says. If all ingredients are in a uniform matrix, nothing stands out."

Theres another problem with uniformity, especially if the size is small. The pieces will compact together and affect texture, making it tougher to chew.

My biggest concern on cereal clusters and whole-grain granolas being available for an all-natural claim revolves around everyone's individual perception or definition of all-natural," Bonner says. My experience in the grain-based foods industry convinces me that flaked grains and simple coating and binding systems are highly qualified natural formats for all-natural products. The processing of these types of cereal bases is simple.  The grain-based ingredients and syrup or binding ingredients are blended separately, then together, and gently heated for drying and toasting. Retention of naturally occurring nutrients is achieved as these items contain stable vitamins and minerals, good quality protein and fiber."

Developers might also consider incorporating other natural ingredients from sources other than grains to increase nutrition and improve bar texture, such as whole algalin protein and whole algalin flour derived from microalgae. Microalgae-based ingredients are becoming more popular and accepted by consumers as a natural source of nutrients in foods," says Philippe Caillat, senior director, marketing. Solazyme Roquette Nutritionals, South San Francisco, CA. Known as some of the most nutrient-packed plant species found in nature, and until now globally recognized as a nutraceutical, microalgae are a prolific source of oil, protein, fiber and micronutrients that can be grown and processed in typical fermentation plants. Thus, food formulators and consumers alike can rest assured that our products are derived from a pure, consistent and sustainable hydrocrop, eliminating concern over contamination, irregularity or depleting resources."

These ingredients are naturally rich in protein, fiber, healthy lipids, emulsifiers and numerous micronutrients Using a breakthrough cultivation and preparation method that we have developed, we have the capability to develop our ingredients to make them more lipid-rich or more protein-rich, depending on the intended application and desired nutritional targets," Caillat explains. These products are all natural, sustainably grown, vegan, nonallergenic, non-GMO and gluten-free.

Whole algalin protein is a highly digestible protein ingredient containing 50% protein, along with fiber, healthy lipids, micronutrients and a unique amino acid profile. With a neutral flavor and minimal interaction with other ingredients in formulation, whole algalin protein enables food developers to add protein and improve their end products nutritional profile without the need for reformulation," says Matthew Patrick, vice president, technology, Solazyme Roquette Nutritionals. It is heat- and low-pH-stable.

Whole algalin flour acts as a trans-fat-free and cholesterol-free healthy lipid alternative to butter, oil and eggs," Patrick continues. By using whole algalin flour, formulators can replace saturated fat with healthy monounsaturated fat, and reduce fat in a formula without increasing sugar. Whole algalin flour offers other important functional benefits, as well. It improves mouthfeel and provides a full, rich texture while also extending shelf life. It also acts as a texture modulator that, depending on the desired result, can create a final product that is either soft and moist, or crunchy. From a convenience perspective, whole algalin flour is not sticky and is easily managed in industrial equipment."

Because of its texture improvement and its moisture-retention properties, Patrick says  whole algalin flour is beneficial in challenging bar applications.

Helpful advice

Cereal and snack bars are subject to oxidation, especially given the presence of unsaturated fatty acids in many natural ingredients and their interaction with other components. The resulting rancidity (off-flavors and off-aromas, such as "painty," and "oxidized oil") can cause a shorter shelf life," explains Roger Nahas, Ph.D., director, R&D antioxidant applications, Kalsec, Inc., Kalamazoo, MI. Moreover, very often oxidation will manifest itself in a decrease in favorable bar attributes, such as sweet, buttery and nutty, when applicable. This will cause a decrease in quality, even within the limits of the acceptable shelf life. Antioxidants will not only inhibit rancidity off-notes, but will also preserve the original bar formula's positive organoleptic attributes. Kalsec developed natural antioxidant systems that do not create objectionable odors and flavors that would interfere with the taste of the bar." This includes such ingredients as a rosemary extract with a standardized aroma.

He suggests seasoning systems that combine both flavoring and antioxidants. The use of subliminal levels of spices can also be effective to mask cereal notes," Nahas says. He notes that standardized liquid extracts, offer the consistency, stability and quality of delivering a flavor over traditional ground spices." 

Spices can provide more than flavor and shelf-life. Some, such as paprika and turmeric, fall into the natural category of coloring agents, as defined in 21 CFR 101.22.  Look for the listing of color additives exempt from certification in 21 CFR 73. Though many of the colors on the list are considered natural, not every color will pass processing scrutiny. FDA simply means that a color additive is exempt from certification when certification of every batch is not required for the protection of public health. However, many of the colorants on the exempt list are derived from natural sources, although in some cases, nature-identical" forms are the product of chemical synthesis.

Caramel color, which results from the controlled heat treatment of nutritive sweeteners, is naturally derived," explains Jennifer Brown, global application scientist, D. D. Williamson, Louisville, KY. "As a nonsynthetic color additive, it does not require batch certification. It is in the same 'exempt from certification' category as annatto extract, grape skin, red beet, etc." Of the four classes of caramel color, Class 1 caramel colors are considered by some to be the most natural, and some are certified organic.  Oil-dispersible caramel color can color fat-based bar coatings where conventional caramel color would cause the coating to seize," Brown says. The same oil-dispersible technology can also apply to other natural coloring in bar applications. The technology can also enhance the vibrancy of fat-encapsulated inclusions."

Brown emphasizes that the optimal bar coloring, from a visual or functional perspective, is often a blend of two or more colorings. When coloring all-natural bars, there are some ingredient intricacies that developers should consider. Red beet is heat-sensitive," she says. Anthocyanins are pH-sensitive (red in acid, purple in higher pH, which might be a consideration in fruit fillings for bars). Turmeric is light-sensitive. The solution may require changes in processing and/or packaging. High dosage may be required to overcome yellow/white background color in bar coatings."

As important as pairing colors that complement each other, suppliers and customers must be sure they are operating on the same interpretation of the term "natural." Brown believes its vital for ingredient suppliers to ask their customers to clarify natural requirements. It's also critical to clarify intentions for both the ingredient statement (back label) and product display (front) panel," she says.

Some of those consumers who are eagle-eying every ingredient declaration and front-panel promise are aggressive. It seems every week there is a new lawsuit brought against a company for its use of the word 'natural' with a particular product, alleging that it misled consumers," says Holland. "Until the FDA issues guidance in this area, I suggest that the term is used carefully and to err on the side of caution."

Cindy Hazen, a 20-year veteran of the food industry, is a freelance writer based in Memphis, TN. She can be reached at [email protected].

Click here to download content related to natural/clean label from the Food Product Design Content Library.