A Horse of Another Flavor

Horseradish, a member of the mustard family, Cruciferae, is as historically colorful as it is pungent. It was familiar to ancient Egyptians as early as 1500 B.C. The early Greeks used a root they referred to as Raphanos agrios, or wild radish, as a rub to alleviate lower back pain and as an aphrodisiac.

Today, an estimated 24 million pounds of horseradish roots are processed into about 6 million gallons of prepared horseradish. But why is this single root so desirable?

Horseradish, or Armoracia rusticana, is native to Eastern Europe. Because it was found growing near the sea, it was referred to with the German word "meerrettich" or "sea radish." The English pronunciation, however, sounds like "mare." Many believe that "mareradish" eventually became "horseradish," the word "horse" being added to indicate its large size and coarse taste.  

The Germans and Danes brought horseradish from the medicine cabinet to the dining table, mixing it with vinegar and serving it as a condiment for fish and meats. The English first accepted horseradish as a food in the mid 1600s, but only by commoners and laborers. As the 1600s drew to a close, horseradish became the English gentlemen's top choice for accompanying oysters and beef dishes. The English also served a "horseradish cordial" to weary travelers. The pungent root's effect as a stimulant was believed to "revitalize."

Horseradish traveled to North America with early colonists. By the 1800s, it was a commonly cultivated item in the northeast, and could be found growing wild near Boston. Horseradish became a commercially grown product toward the end of the 1800s, as westward-moving immigrants started horseradish farms in the fertile soil around the Mississippi River. Today, horseradish grows on about 3,000 acres of land found in areas of Wisconsin, Virginia, New Jersey and California. Farms in Collinsville, IL, however, produce approximately 85% of the world's horseradish supply. Part of an area known as the American Bottom Lands, this region's soil is very loose and rich in potash, an essential nutrient for horseradish. In addition, long summers provide optimal growing conditions, while cold winters give ideal conditions for root dormancy.

Today, two general types of horseradish are grown: "common" and "Bohemian." Broad, crinkled leaves are characteristic of the common variety, while Bohemian plants sport smooth, narrow leaves. Today's horseradish industry primarily is based on the more disease-resistant Bohemian type.

Horseradish is harvested twice per year as growers "lift" growing plants, pull the root out of the soil to remove any lateral root offshoots, and then replace the root in the soil to continue growing. This practice maximizes the growth of one large main root while providing growers with stock for future plantings.

Harvested roots maintain good condition for up to 12 months when kept at 30 to 32?F. Maintaining high relative humidity (90% to 95%) minimizes deterioration during storage. To avoid greening, growers keep roots in the dark. Cold-weather conditioning prior to digging provides roots that store better than those harvested during active growth.  

Despite being associated with strong aroma and hot or bitter taste, horseradish roots, in their native state, are odorless. The roots contain a crystalline glucoside named sinigrin, and an enzyme called myrosin, which do not come into contact with each other under normal conditions. Upon bruising or cutting, myrosin facilitates sinigrin decomposition, a reaction that produces the volatile oil allyl isothiocyanate (the same found in black mustard seed). This oil yields the hot, biting taste and pungent aroma.  

After harvesting, ground horseradish is typically mixed with vinegar, halting the reaction and stabilizing the aroma and flavor. Addition time of vinegar can be modified to control the final product's "strength." Early addition, for example, yields a milder-tasting product. Regardless of initial strength and hotness, prepared horseradish, commercial or homemade, darkens in color and decreases in pungency over time.      

Horseradish varies in form and function. Grated roots mixed with distilled vinegar yields "basic prepared horseradish." Additional ingredients, such as salt, sugar, cream or vegetable oil, can enhance or protect flavor. Other forms, such as cream-style, sauce, beet and dehydrated, vary in texture and added ingredients, allowing consumers to select their favorite for any application. Smooth with a light flavor is good for dipping, while thick with a hearty flavor better compliments a spicy sandwich.  

Many consumers think of another product, wasabi, as Japanese Horseradish. Wasabi is actually made from an entirely different plant known as Wasabi japonica. Although it does have some flavor characteristics in common with horseradish, wasabi imparts a distinctly different overall taste that is key to a number of Oriental preparations. In some markets where supply does not meet demand, adding synthetic flavors and green coloring to American horseradish creates a substitute for traditional wasabi.  

Over the centuries, horseradish has been used to treat a host of ailments. More recently, scientists at the Agricultural Research Service and Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, have shown that allyl isothiocyanate protects against a number of food pathogens, including Listeria, E.coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. Ongoing studies also reveal that a compound referred to as "horseradish peroxidase" removes pollutants from wastewater.  

While many consumers believe that a beef sandwich is the only edible use for horseradish, others know better. Just 15 grams (one tablespoon) of prepared horseradish contains a mere 6 calories, 1.4 grams of carbohydrates, 14 mg sodium and no fat.   The same 15 grams also provides small amounts of vitamin C, folate, calcium and phosphorous.

According to The Horseradish Information Council, Atlanta, including horseradish is easy. Add it to a breakfast casserole (about 10 grams per serving gives a bit of punch). Or add it to a Bloody Mary for some extra "juice" (about 2.5 grams per serving.)   Used like an herb, it adds flavor to traditional sauces, such as hollandaise. For entrées, addition rates range from 5 to 30 grams per serving, depending on the flavor of the entrée and how much "horsepower" is wanted.  

Many still swear that rubbing horseradish across the forehead alleviates headaches. Whether as a headache reliever or sandwich topping, the uses for this odd-looking white root -- referred to in parts of the United States as "stingnose" -- are limited only by the imagination. Whenever you're looking for a little extra zip or zing, don't count this "horse" out of the running.

R. J. Foster has over a decade of experience in research & development and technical service in the food industry. He is a freelance writer specializing in technical communications, and can be reached at [email protected] .

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