A Taste of Healthy Spices and Seasonings

By Cindy Hazen, Contributing Editor

Heres a recipe to improve heart health according to a friend. Spread honey on toast and sprinkle cinnamon heavily on top. Eat daily.

You wont find this prescription at the doctors office, but you might find cinnamon mentioned in scientific journals. And that's not the only one. Scientists are studying the spice cabinet as a means of avoiding the medicine cabinet.

The FDA does not allow health claims for spices. However, supportive research into the health benefits of spices fits nicely with two consumer trends: movement toward natural remedies, and a growing appetite for spicy foods.

Keep in mind that, while one study is not definitive proof, it does open interesting avenues for additional research and development. Many of the health benefits are attributed to spices' antioxidant content, which isn't surprising since many spices score well in terms of ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity, an analytical method of measuring antioxidant capacities).

 The following are a few examples of the potential power of spices, as well as a guide to their use.

A look at the literature

German researchers report that preclinical evidence suggests that cinnamon is high in antioxidants and may help with inflammation, cardiovascular function and glucose/insulin regulation. Studies in humans have suggested that cinnamon may play a role in glucose and insulin regulation," notes the abstract. However, there are only very few well-controlled clinical studies. Further research is needed before definitive recommendations can be made" (Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 2010; 50(9):822-834).

A study conducted by researchers at The Pennsylvania State University, University Park, PA, concluded that eating a diet rich in spices reduces the body's negative responses to eating high-fat meals. (Journal of Nutrition, 2011;.141(8): 1,451-1,457).

"Normally, when you eat a high-fat meal, you end up with high levels of triglycerides, a type of fat, in your blood," says Sheila West, associate professor of biobehavioral health, Penn State. "If this happens too frequently, or if triglyceride levels are raised too much, your risk of heart disease is increased. We found that adding spices to a high-fat meal reduced triglyceride response by about 30 %, compared to a similar meal with no spices added."

Two tablespoons of spices were added to each serving of the test meal, which consisted of chicken curry, Italian herb bread and a cinnamon biscuit. The control meal was identical, except that spices were not included. The spiced meal used rosemary, oregano, cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper, cloves, garlic powder and paprika, "because they had potent antioxidant activity previously under controlled conditions in the lab," says Ann Skulas-Ray, postdoctoral fellow.

Turmeric, a spice from the root Curcuma longa, is the subject of numerous studies. In-vitro and in-vivo research has shown various activities, such as anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antifungal, cytokines release, antioxidant, immunomodulatory, enhancing of the apoptotic process, and antiangiogenic properties," say researchers in Israel, who conducted a study summarizing the effects and properties of turmeric, including preclinical and especially clinical studies. (Current Opinion in Clinical Nutrition & Metabolic Care, 2011; 14(6):588-597).

Ginger has been used in various cultures for culinary as well as therapeutic benefits. Scientists in Pakistan report, The pungent fractions of ginger, namely gingerols, shogaols, paradols, and volatile constituents like sesquiterpenes and monoterpenes, are mainly attributed to the health-enhancing perspectives of ginger. This review elucidates the health claims of ginger and the molecular aspects and targets, with special reference to anticancer perspectives, immunonutrition, antioxidant potential, and cardiovascular cure. (Critical  Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 2011; 51(5):383-393).

Black pepper and cardamom extracts are shown to significantly enhance the cytotoxic activity of natural killer cells, indicating their potential anti-cancer effects. Our findings strongly suggest that black pepper and cardamom exert immunomodulatory roles and antitumor activities, and hence they manifest themselves as natural agents that can promote the maintenance of a healthy immune system. We anticipate that black pepper and cardamom constituents can be used as potential therapeutic tools to regulate inflammatory responses and prevent/attenuate carcinogenesis." (Journal of Medicinal Food, 2010; 13(2):371-381).

Spanish researchers are looking at the bioavailability of hot pepper components. Pepper fruits (Capsicum annuum L.) contain a wide array of phytochemicals with well-known antioxidant properties. Since bioactive compounds depend on their bioavailability to exert beneficial effects, it was crucial to estimate the extent of release from the food matrix and thus their bioaccessibility. Accordingly, we determined the individual carotenoid and phenolic content as well as the antioxidant properties of four red hot dried cultivars (Capsicum annuum L.) of high consumption in Mexico. Hot dried peppers at their ripe stage had a high content of bioactive compounds that exhibited significant antioxidant properties (26 to 80 micromol trolox equivalents per gram of dry matter), such as polyphenols (more than 2000 mg per 100 gram of dry matter) and carotenoids (95 to 437 mg per 100 gram of dry matter)" (Journal of Agricultural  and Food Chemistry, 2010; 58(6):3,399-3,406).

Bioaccessibility of these compounds varied. The researchers found: The amount released from the food matrix by the action of digestive enzymes was about 75% for total polyphenols, up to 49% for both beta-carotene and zeaxanthin, and up to 41% for beta-cryptoxanthin. The results suggest that from 50% to 80% of these carotenoids could reach the colon to be potentially fermented or could remain unavailable."

This is just a sampling of recently published studies. Scientists around the world are striving to find the magic bullet to enhance health through spices and seasonings. Multiple issues are at stake: identification of the specific chemical components within the spice that yield a benefit, consistency of that component across growing seasons and regions, and bioavailablity of that chemical component. The million-dollar question is whether enough of those components can be ingested as part of a normal diet to yield a benefit, especially when the same spices may not be consumed every day.

A spice primer

While the health properties of these plants might provide benefits, the goal of the product developer is to incorporate them in a food product that tastes good. Otherwise, we would just put them in a capsule and be done with the development process. First, it's a matter of indentifying the appropriate spice and form.

The American Spice Trade Association, Washington, lists more than 50 individual spices. On product labels, most can be declared by the term "spice" or by their usual name. Spices that contribute colorpaprika, turmeric, annatto seed and saffronmust be called by their name. Onion and garlic are considered dehydrated vegetables and must also be declared. 

Spices are derived from botanical sources, including seeds (anise, caraway, coriander, nutmeg), berries (allspice), leaves (chive, cilantro, dill weed, marjoram), bark (cinnamon), and fruit (star anise, paprika, vanilla bean).

Alain Darriet, analytical lab director, Wixon, Inc., St. Francis, WI, points out that, in industry, the term "spice" refers to a dried product. Fresh product has no trade value because it is not going to travel," he says. For spice, its always going to be dried, typically under the sun." The loss of moisture concentrates the compounds within the botanical product.

Some spices, such as oregano and parsley, might be used in whole form. Other spices, including caraway seed or fennel seed, might be used whole or ground. Black pepper must be ground or crushed to release flavor, unless used in a pickling seasoning or boil. The form of spice used will depend on the application.

Depending on the spice, there are dozens or hundreds or thousands of chemical components that are part of the spice," Darriet says. "Some of them have aroma, and that would be the volatile oil. Some would have an impact on the taste and not on the aroma. That would be, for example, capsaicin in red pepper, which brings the heat. It doesnt smell much, but it burns if you taste it. Youre going to have some chemical components that are going to affect both aroma and taste. Youre going to have chemical components that do not have any aroma, that do not impact the taste, that are more functional; for example, carnosic acid in rosemary, which is a very good antioxidant. Its found in sage, as well."

When working with spices its important to zero in on which chemicals contribute to the end goal. Is aroma, flavor or functionality important? And, particularly with compounds that might confer health benefits, it's important to consider the effect of the process on the levels of the key substances.

Its also critical to consider shelf life. Mincing, grinding and processing disrupt the botanical matrix and release volatile chemicals. This is why ground spices have such a rich aroma. The more fine spices are ground, the more volatile oils are released. Shelf life is reduced. Its not going to stay in good shape for a very long time," says Darriet. The best example would be black pepper. You can keep black peppercorns for many, many years. If you grind it ten years later, it smells as if it were fresh. Once ground, youre just going to get a couple months and then everything is going to evaporate. In the end, you have a black and white powder that doesnt smell much. Keep the spice in the most native form if you want to get miles out of it."

Color-fading is also an issue with some spices. When subjected to light, paprika, annatto and turmeric will fade. Darriet shares a trick of the trade to enhance shelf life: You may use antioxidants to protect them a little bit longer. We like to use rosemary extract because of the carnosic acid. Its very efficient. It has no taste. Its natural."

Oleoresins

Spice extractives, or oleoresins, are more concentrated than the spice itself. The term "spice extractive" is used broadly to cover all forms of spices and herbs, but It should refer to those products produced by water/alcohol extraction," says Gordon Kozak, CBS, director R&D, Ecom Food Industries Corporation, Markham, Ontario, Canada. The true definition of an oleoresin is the oil soluble extracts of the spice or herb."

Initially, the oleoresin was a tool of the flavorist, not of the product developer. The standards that were in place were based on the source product. A black pepper would have an expected yield of 18% to 20% volatile oil, and 38% to 40% piperine," explains Kozak. Nowadays, literally anything goes. If Mother Nature causes a low yield of volatile oil in a crop, it can be adjusted.  If a product developer finds a particular concentration of an oleoresin too strong, it is blended down to make it more palatable for production use."

Manufacture of spice extractives requires more processing than dried spices, so they are more expensive; however, usage is very low. The industry has become accustomed to dosage rates in the 0.2% to 0.5% range as consumed," says Kozak. When you consider that, in nature, these flavor components are actually tasted in the range of 0.002% to 0.05% as consumed, you can see why there might be a need to create many customized versions. Not every manufacturer can easily weigh small amounts of a concentrated spice."

Spice extractives contain both fixed oils and volatile oils. The volatile oils are more aromatic, with a lower boiling point than water. The fixed oil portion contains the less volatile components and typically any color constituents. "The end product of a true oleoresin varies greatly," Kozak says. "In the case of nutmeg, it will come out like butter, for marjoram it will come out thick and sticky like a glue. Because of this, and as a means to standardize the finished product, producers will often add a vegetable oil, such as sunflower, to make it easier to handle, and adjust the volatile oil content. This final material is often referred to as base material. Since an oleoresin is the oil portion of the material, it is oil soluble, not water soluble."

Emulsifiers such as polysorbate, lecithin, and mono- and diglycerides are added to make the oleoresin water soluble. Each manufacturer has their own special blend and or processing procedures to create a product that will easily blend into a water based food application," Kozak says. Small amounts of an oil-based flavor/extract/oleoresin can be used in many food applications without the need for additional emulsifiers. Often, they are products that have starches, gums, proteins or other aids that, when cooked up and mixed together, will remain stable. At least for the small amount of time before being eaten."

Oleoresins are an ideal ingredient choice to pack a lot of aroma, flavor or functionality into a product. Oleoresin black pepper could be used if you need to pump up the heat," Darriet says. "Piperine, the component in black pepper that is responsible for heat, has no aroma. If you need to pack a lot the taste that burns you in a small amount of product, you cannot afford to use ground black pepper. Youre going to need to use the extractive because, with a little bit of it, you can bring a lot of power to the food product or the beverage that you want to make. In a 100% formulation there is so much percentage available. Spice extractives are one form to reach the goal of packing a lot of energy in a small amount of product. But it makes it more soluble, too."

Solubilty can be helpful when making a beverage such as a mojito. The mojitio should be clear, so rather than mint leaves, an oleoresin is a better choice.

A longer shelf life is another advantage of using an oleoresin. Properly stored, oleoresins are more stable than dried spice," says Kozak. Properly stored dry spices have a shelf life of about six months. A native oleoresin has a shelf life of at least two years when stored properly. I have seen many customers continue to use the products well after four years of storage (after retesting of course), because there has been no change in the flavor quality. And the diluted variations often carry a similar shelf life time frame, although it can vary."

During processing of oleoresins, most of the bacteria is eliminated, Kozak points out. Dry spices may have high microbial counts because of the way they are handled laid out in the sun to dry, for example.

Diluents that are used to cut down an oleoresin to a more user-friendly level may impact shelf life. Vegetable oils are prone to rancidity if not stored properly, and even if they are, it will go degrade over time," says Kozak. Other diluents can add water to the mix, creating a higher water activity, and thus bringing on product degradation. Preservatives could be added to prevent this, but for the most part it is not necessary, and it would alter the image of oleoresins as being a natural product."

Quality counts

Heres a tip on the QT: Spices require a lot of QC. The composition of certain chemical compounds will impact the price. In black pepper, for example, piperine is a valuable component. In red pepper, capsaicin levels are critical.

Today, these are tested by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Capsaicin levels are still reported in Scoville units, a measure that lingers from an old method that required tasting several dilutions to rank heat perception. HPLC reports parts per million , and a mathematical formula converts results to Scoville. One part capsaicin per million corresponds to about 15 Scoville units.

HPLC is typically used to analyze large molecules that are not volatile, like  antioxidants. Carnosic acid would be tested by HPLC," says Darriet. "Vanillin in vanilla beans is tested by HPLC, as is piperine for black pepper or white pepper." Cinnamon is tested by gas chromatography. Thats where you want to evaluate the volatile oils of your spice," he says.

Mass spectrometry is able to break down molecules to get a fingerprint to compare with a database so that you can put a name on the chemical," Darriet  explains. Thats the ultimate tool, because not only can you separate all of the different components, like the volatile oil, but you can also put a name on each chemical.

The same spice grown in different regions may be significantly different. A perfect example of spice variation is fennel seeds. Wixon uses these to make Italian seasoning for sausages. Egyptian fennel is their standard because it performs well in meat. Most fennel seeds come from India," Darriet explains. Typically, they look exactly alike. In composition, the volatile oil is slightly different. It makes the taste slightly different. The Egyptian fennel is a little on the harsh side. The Indian fennel will quickly remind you of licorice candy. Its not so good in a meat application. Flip-flopping between the two may create differences or kill the consistency of the product we make." In-house testing assures arrival of exactly the right fennel from the vendor.

As use of spices trends toward healthful benefits, maintaining consistent levels of beneficial compounds will be important, especially if the FDA is to allow health claims. The question then will be, is it a food or a drug? From a regulatory standpoint, perhaps spices as folk medicine are an easier row to hoe.

Cindy Hazen, a 20-year veteran of the food industry, is a freelance writer based in Memphis, TN. She can be reached at [email protected].