Mushrooms: Some of Them Are Edible

Mushrooms: Some of Them Are Edible

By Angelo Corvino

While many varieties of mushrooms exist, the majority of commercial mushroom cultivation in the United States revolves around the fresh Agaricus white mushroom, a delectably appetizing fungus that is simply fantastic in both its raw state and when cooked. Many specialty mushrooms also find use in culinary and packaged applications, but the types with the most-widespread culinary and economic significance are the white, cremini, oyster, enoki and shiitake mushrooms.

Mushrooming possibilities 

White mushrooms (the most common is Agaricus bisporus) vary in color from creamy white to off-white, and in size from small buttons to large stuffers. Its cap is smooth and round and it has a short stem. The flavors of the raw white mushroom are mildly earthy; when it is sautéed, the flavors intensify as the natural liquor evaporates from the mushrooms and the flavor enhancers concentrate. It is commonly used to enhance sauces, soups, pizzas and stuffings. Use them raw to liven up a salad, marinate them to serve as a condiment, dip them with other raw vegetables in your favorite dressings as an appetizer or snack, and serve them breaded and deep-fried.

Cremini mushrooms (also A. bisporus), sometimes called brown or golden Italian mushrooms, are related to the white mushroom, but creminis have a naturally dark-colored cap that fluctuates from a tan-coffee to a rich-chocolate color. Some of the new brown strains are much denser and have down-to-earth, brawny aromas and flavors with a deeper intensity than those of the white mushroom. For a mushroom with a full-bodied flavor, this is a good alternative to the subtle flavors of the white mushroom. Use this mushroom either raw or cooked in the same fashion as the standard white A. bisporus.

Portobello mushrooms are large cremini mushrooms that have been permitted to grow even bigger due to the extra room available for growth after harvesting other classifications, such as buttons, mediums, stuffers and “portabellinis,” a size between cremini and portobellos—similar to button mushrooms, but with a light-tan or brownish color and nuttier flavor. Portobello mushrooms range from tan to darkbrown in color and can have approximately 4- to 6-in.-diameter caps. The longer growth cycle gives these mushrooms rich, dense, meaty flavors. This longer cycle of growth also creates a more-open veil and large gill area. As the portobello matures, the gill area goes from a light-pink to a dark-black color, which signifies a more-intense flavor. In the restaurant industry, a lot of chefs will cut the gill area out of the mushroom prior to cooking because many consumers find the gills unappealing. Marinating these mushrooms with balsamic vinaigrette and then barbecuing them creates an easy side dish.

Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus) grow out of the sides of trees in the forest, so this pattern is simulated in mushroom grow houses on bread-loafshaped logs or hanging compost-filled perforated bags that have been inoculated with spawn. The mushrooms grow out of the perforated holes in the hanging bags in a familylike structure. Their shape is very interesting. It is referred to as an oyster mushroom because of the shell-like caps that are joined together like tiles on a roof; it’s often described as having a spatula-shaped look. Oysters come in many varieties, but Monterey Mushrooms, Watsonville, CA, grows browns and grays because of their good, cost-effective yield. They taste much better cooked than raw, with a delicate, brackish flavor and silky texture. One of my favorite ways to prepare them is to include them in assorted vegetables for tempura, fried and dipped in ponzu sauce.

Enoki mushrooms (Flammulina velutipes) have long stems with small button caps and grow in “families,” or groups connected at the base. They are similar to A. bisporus with their creamy-white color and mild flavor, but add a nice textural crunch. When preparing these mushroom clusters, trim the bottom off the base to separate into individual mushrooms. Enokis make a great garnish for a Caesar salad by just wrapping an anchovy around a bouquet of them and setting it on top of the salad. They can be added to sandwiches and stir-fries, or add them to soups just before service.

Shiitake mushrooms (Lentinus edodes), also called oak, Chinese or Black Forest mushrooms, are distinguished by wide, umbrella-shaped caps that curl at the edges and sometimes come to a point in the center. These mushrooms range in color from tan-coffee to a dark-chocolate color similar to the cremini and portobello. The tan-colored gill area is shaped like tiny little blades that circumnavigate the underside of the mushroom cap. The caps have a soft spongy texture that beautifully soaks up marinades. However, be sure to remove the highly fibrous stems prior to use. As for the flavor, it can be described as rich and woodsy with some naturally occurring aldehyde aromas. They are excellent sautéed in butter with a little added coarse-ground mustard and then combined with a nice demiglaze and draped over a mediumrare filet mignon.

Shiitake, oyster and enoki have typically been considered the top specialty mushrooms, but now demand has increased for maitake, beech and king trumpet varieties. Maitake mushrooms (Grifola frondosa) work well in stirfries, baked dishes, tempura or even deep-fried. Brown and white beech mushrooms (Hypsizygus tessulatus) have a firm, crunchy texture with a nutty, brown-butter flavor when cooked. They retain their texture and shape when cooked, making them very versatile for all cooking techniques. King trumpet mushrooms (Pleurotus eryngii), also known as king oysters, have a far superior flavor and crunchier texture compared to all other oyster species. Once again, this type is very versatile in most any style of cooking, especially in soups and stews.

Edible mushrooms have high nutritional value, and some consider them functional foods. A raw mushroom is a good source of manganese, zinc, iron, folate, vitamin C, protein and dietary fiber, and a very good source of selenium, potassium, phosphorus, panothenic acid, vitamin B6, riboflavin, thiamine and vitamin D. A number of Asian studies, mainly on shiitake and maitake mushrooms, have suggested that mushrooms or their components might aid in the treatment of certain cancers, boost the immune system and reduce the risk of coronary heart disease. U.S. research suggests that the white mushroom might have a positive effect in the treatment and prevention of breast cancer, and perhaps prostate cancer.

Maitake mushrooms are much sought after for their nutritional and medicinal qualities. Clinical trials have shown that the mushrooms might prove useful in the treatment of cancer, diabetes and a variety of immune deficiencies and acute immune disorders.

A forest of ingredients 

From a retail standpoint, customers usually choose the white A. bisporus mushroom first, with some favoring browns, a mixture of both or an exotic blend. The white mushrooms are still more readily accepted than the brown, but consumers have slowly started changing those preferences.

Fresh white and cremini mushrooms typically range in size from buttons to medium to large stuffers. The mature portobellos are sold in whole form or sliced. Other mushrooms that are sold fresh include the exotics: brown and gray oysters, shiitakes, enokis, and sometimes the wild-sourced morel mushroom (the mostcommon type is Morchella deliciosa), which typically have limited practical use in retail or widely produced foodservice products due to their high price and limited availability.

Mushrooms preserved through drying have a good flavor. Drying prevents deterioration and is convenient for long-term storage or transportation. The mushrooms have been highly concentrated through the drying process, giving them a rich, deep aroma and intense flavors. Avoid dried mushrooms with tiny holes in the flesh, which may indicate previous insect activity. When storing, it is usually advised to keep dried mushrooms in frozen storage where they will be safe from insect infestation.

Many different types of dried mushrooms are available, including shiitake, oyster, wood-ear, porcini and bolete mushrooms, as well as blends. These mushrooms can be reconstituted by adding them to hot water and steeping for about 10 minutes and then draining. If desired or necessary for the target application, strain the soaking liquid through wet cheesecloth or a damp coffee filter to remove any grit after reconstitution. They can then be added whole or chopped to various products; adding the liquid to the product is sometimes an option, as well. Product designers can also grind dried mushrooms and use the powder as they would herbs and spices.

Marinated mushroom products can add new flavors to products and take some time out of product development by integrating their existing flavors into the product. For example, when considering a breaded-and-fried mushroom product, a marinated mushroom can provide some unique characteristics over a fresh mushroom. Some examples of available flavor profiles for marinated mushrooms include chipotle, herbes de Provence, Italian balsamic, smoked garlic and coconut curry.

Frozen mushrooms also come in individually quick-frozen (IQF) forms and might require use in a frozen state if frozen fresh. If thawed out and then cooked, the mushrooms might turn black unless they have been blanched to deactivate the enzymes responsible for that effect. Un-blanched and roasted IQF mushrooms are also available.

IQF mushrooms are suitable for marinated (low-acid) or brined products, freezer-stable sauces, stuffed mushrooms, or even as a part of a frozen meal kit. Technological advances in freezing have yielded products that practically eliminate free moisture or syneresis, therefore maintaining the desired moisture of the product.

Picking the right mushrooms 

When experimenting with mushrooms in the product-development lab for sauces, marinades, soups or other products, a majority of the time the white mushroom is chosen because it is the most widely accepted type in the United States. However, the brown mushroom could prove a good alternative over the white because of its more-distinct flavor and aroma. Sensory-perception testing has shown that the brown mushrooms are desirable, but still not as much as the white. Also, the format of the final product can dictate the ingredient choice. For example, if putting together a dried soup mix with mushrooms, it makes logical sense to go with dried mushrooms. However, adding a couple of varieties over just one can increase appeal.

When considering portobello mushrooms as ingredients in an application, some thought might be required to make sure the right ingredient type is matched with the right application. Sometimes, the type of ingredient chosen will dictate some adjustments to the formula. For example, blanching an older mushroom, such as a portobello, tends to make it overly soft and rubbery, with some tough textural characteristics. The only way to improve some of these undesirable characteristics is by infusing the mushrooms with ingredients such as xanthan gum, powdered egg whites or rice starch.

Maximizing mushroom impact 

Product designers need know end-product specifications in order to specify the appropriate quality and type of mushrooms sourced for processing. For example, just because a sauce will have dark appearance doesn’t mean that it will mask the use of low-quality mushrooms— it might not completely cover any and/or all imperfections. What you put in is what you get out. Observe the quality of the mushrooms with your own eyes, and only use ingredients that you would eat yourself.

A better understanding of mushrooms will also aid processing. Blanch mushrooms for the appropriate amount of time and temperature to deactivate the enzymes that will turn them different colors of the rainbow. Understand how the slicer in your process affects the texture and the percentage of water that it might remove from fresh mushrooms during slicing. A variable like that could throw off the solid-to-liquid ratio and the specification range. Cooking times, such as in sauces, can also affect the quality of included mushrooms.

After product developers have learned about the different mushrooms and their characteristics, they should acquire some samples to cook with and taste in the lab. Try to cook with as many varieties as possible to develop flavor and aroma memory references. Then you will be closer to understanding which is the appropriate mushroom for your application.