Rediscovering Romano

What we call Romano cheese in the States originated in Italy. Pecorino is the generic name for cheeses made from sheeps milk. Originally, Pecorino Romano cheese was made in the countryside around Rome, which was known as Agro Romano, and the cheese derives its name from this area.

Romano is considered one of the oldest cheeses in the world, and we have little reason to think that todays Pecorino Romano is any different than that made by the shepherds of Latium at the time of the Roman Empire over 2,000 years ago. Soldiers of the Empire were given this cheese as part of their daily rations. At that time, both Hippocrates and Pliny the Elder documented cheese-making techniques, which are still employed in the production of Pecorino Romano cheese today. Demand continued to grow until Roman producers could not keep up. In the early 1900s, production spread to Sardinia, where now more than 60 factories produce this cheese, compared to only 10 in Rome.

Following tradition

Today, most of the Italian production still comes to us from Sardinia. In Italy, the cheese manufacture is seasonal, with most of the production taking place between Nov. and June while the sheep are grazing in the open pastures.

The traditional coagulant used to set Pecorino Romano is lamb rennet paste. It contains two enzymes essential for production of the traditional product, rennet and lamb lipase, both of which lend a unique flavor to the cheese.

Romano is normally ripened for five months for table cheese, and it is stored for eight to 12 months for a grinding or grating cheese. The manufacturing technique is similar to many cheeses, but the cooking step requires bringing the curds to a high temperature (118°F), and it is this step that gives the cheese its hard, grainy texture. Ewes milk lends a distinctive flavor to this Italian classic.

The difference between Romano and another famous Italian hard cheese, Parmesan, is that Parmesan is made from skim cows milk and, consequently, relies on the breakdown of protein (casein) to produce its unique flavor. Romano, on the other hand, is made from whole milk and relies on the breakdown of both protein and milk-fat to develop its flavor. It is the breakdown of the milk-fat by the lipase enzyme that gives Romano its distinctive lipolytic flavor note.

Coming to America 

In America, most Romano cheese is made with cows milk. This version would be called Vaccino Romano in Italy. Occasionally, the highly flavored Caprino Romanogoats milk cheeseis also available.

While the domestic cheese is made in a similar fashion to the Italian variety, starting with cows milk results in a different flavor profile. Ewes milk contains a higher proportion of short-chain fatty acids that produce strong, pungent flavors when they are broken down. Cows milk does not have as many short-chain fatty acids, so the resultant flavor is milder than the sheeps milk product. This lack of flavor can be counteracted to some degree by the use of different lipase enzymes. Calf, kid and lamb lipases are often used in the manufacture of Romano cheese, and each specific lipase results in a specific flavor. It is also common to use mixtures of all three lipases. However, the U.S. consumer does not always prefer a strong traditional flavor, so Americans often blend Romano with Parmigiano-Reggiano (the hard grating cheese made from cows milk in Italy) or domestic cows milk Parmesan to balance and somewhat subdue the flavor.

The manufacture of Romano in the United States is governed by Title 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations, Section 133, Part 183, which specifies that the cheese must be a minimum of five months of age, it must have at least 38% milk-fat and must not contain more than 34% moisture.

Inside the wheel 

Romano cheese has a salty flavor with a fruity tang. The flavor becomes steadily more robust with age. Its interior is compact and white to pale-yellow in color. It may have irregular small eyes. It should feel slightly moist, yet it should grate well.

Romano is typically made in wheels or cylinders, which can weigh anywhere between 48 and 72 lbs. The cheese is always pressed and will have a natural rind or a protective coating of lard or oil.

Romano is traditionally used as a grating cheese and is a signature flavoring for many southern Italian dishes. It is sold as fresh or dry-grated cheese. The dry-grated cheese has a moisture content of around 18%, which renders the cheese shelf stable. This type of cheese is typically used as a thickener in sauces, and it also imparts flavor. Freshly shredded, shaved or dry-grated Romano is served on pasta and salads. When served as a table cheese, thin slices of Romano can be drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. Aged balsamic vinegar also harmonizes well with Romano. The cheese pairs well with most robust medium and full-body red wines.

Romano is used by food manufacturers in many products, including macaroni and cheese, tomato-sauced pasta dishes, pizza sauces, rice and noodle side dishes, flavored crackers and chips. Ounce for ounce, Romano provides more flavor than many other popular cheeses, so a little Romano in the formula can mean a big boost to flavor. 

John Brody is technology principal in research and development at Sargento Foods, Inc. Prior to joining Sargento in 1999 as senior scientist, Brody worked in the United States, United Kingdom and his native Ireland for more than 20 years in the production of natural cheeses. As a cheese-maker, Brody won first place in the European Cheese Championship for his Cheddar cheese in 1999. He earned a B.S. in dairy and food science from University College Cork and is currently pursuing his certification in Culinology®.