Tart Cherry on Top

By Charlie Baggs
Contributing Editor

Experts believe that the tart cherry came into being in Eastern Europe sometime around 300 B.C., and was subsequently incorporated into the diets of the Greeks, Romans and later historical figures such as Henry VIII. Today, tart cherries are still very much a part of modern diets and menus, and are gaining attention as a superfruit with high antioxidant and anthocyanin levels.

The flavor of tart cherry is balanced by a touch of sweetness and tartness, making it suitable for both savory and sweet applications. Whether in a recipe as a background note, or a main character in a dessert, the texture and bright red color of frozen whole tart cherries, or dark burgundy color of dried cherries, add unique eating and aesthetic qualities to any dish.

When reduced, tart cherry juice concentrate is syrupy and blends well with other flavors. The inherent tart, sweet and bitter tastes balance with other ingredients to make for a solid flavor building block. Functional and flavorful, the cherry ingredient has development merit, though it is critical to balance the flavors for each specific application.

Getting back to BASICS

When formulating with tart cherries, refer to the BASICS model, developed by Charlie Baggs Inc., Chicago. This model is a template used to identify the basic flavor components of an ingredient or cooking method and is an acronym for balance, acidity, sweetness, intended flavor and texture, color and saltiness.

Balance is key when developing a recipe with tart cherries. The tart and bitter tastes of the cherry are so prevalent  it is imperative to manage them with the appropriate balance of sweetness. This can be done with a variety of ingredients. For example, dehydrated cane sugar, once it is dissolved in liquid,, can  balance  the tart and bitter components of tart cherries to create a complex taste.

Acidity also has an effect on balance and the ultimate flavor impact. Acidity brightens the taste and makes the mouth salivate. Several acidic ingredients are useful in tart cherry recipes, such as lemon and lime juice for desserts and sweet recipes. Specialty vinegars, like rice-wine, balsamic, apple-cider or malt vinegar, all complement tart cherries background taste when used at the correct level. The idea is to allow the tart cherry flavor to come through in the recipe while highlighting the balance of taste to stimulate the palate.

Various sweet ingredients, like pure cane sugar, caramelized sugar, agave nectar, honey and molasses, will help control the impact of any bitter taste and maximize the cherry flavor.

The intended flavor and texture of tart cherries is significant in recipes, as the name tart cherry has an attractive ring and can be associated with health benefits when incorporated into a recipe name. Maintaining the tart cherry flavor while complementing the taste and balancing the acidity, sweetness and overall intended flavor is what makes these cherries so pleasing in recipes. The texture of tart cherries can either be homogenous when blended, or offer significant texture as a garnish. The distinctive chewy texture works well in muffins, pies and desserts, while the texture in a savory sauce can add to the sauces viscosity.

Whole, in pieces or purèed, tart cherries add an attractive reddish hue that can highlight the color of menu items, such as red meat.

Salt is utilized in most sweet or savory applications, often to maximize the combined flavors. A small amount of salt can potentiate the flavor and round out the taste, and the clean taste of sea salt is perfectly complemented by the complex tart cherry flavors.

Its all about the cherry

Cherries can be found in a number of different ingredient formats:

Dried cherries have a darker color and a condensed flavor. They can be macerated or soaked in brandy, bourbon, blended whiskey, vodka or orange juice, with flavors of the earth like cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla complementing their flavor. They are ideal as a garnish in sauces, dressings or baked goods.

Frozen cherries are individually quick-frozen and packed for convenient use, resulting in a bold flavor and vibrant red color. They can be blended in a drink, macerated for a marinade, used as a garnish in punch or made into a purèe for sauces.

Cherry juice concentrate is made from approximately 100 cherries per 1 oz. of juice. The ratio for creating a juice drink is usually 1 oz. of cherry concentrate to 7 oz. of water. The concentrate reduces down to a rich syrup that adds vibrant color and flavorto savory sauces or buttercream cake mixes.

Fresh cherrieswhether sweet or bracingly tartare some of seasonal eating's most tempting treats. It is best to experiment with the varieties available near you. Montmorency cherries are the traditional cooking cherries. Once picked, they need to be pitted and frozen or canned within 24 hours. Balaton cherries are an old variety from Hungary. They are a recent introduction to Michigan, where they show promise. They typically ripen a bit later than Montmorency, with larger, firmer fruit.

Cooking applications

Flavors that are synergistic with tart cherries include: vanilla, butter, almond extract, cinnamon, nutmeg, cream cheese, graham crackers, puff pastry, pie dough, brown sugar, orange zest and juice, orange liquor, raspberry liquor, bourbon and rum.

Various recipes involving tart cherries have merit in the culinary world, ranging from beverages, savory sauces and marinades to a plethora of desserts.

The year-round availability of tart cherries and the variety of ways to incorporate them into product and recipe development make them an ideal ingredient for any menu or formula. In addition to being included in desserts, the unique flavor of the tart cherry lends them to use in drinks, marinades and sauces.

For beverage applications, maceration of cherries is particularly useful. Maceration is a process used to break down a product and add new or complementary flavor by soaking or steeping the product to soften it. Macerate or steep tart cherries in Kentucky bourbon to make the perfect Manhattan cocktail.

Of course, cherry purèe or concentrate is also useful in the formulation of non-alcoholic beverages such as smoothies and mocktails. One particularly refreshing mocktail involves cherry concentrate mixed with ginger ale and a touch of orange juice served over ice.

When creating sauces and marinades, sauce reduction is a way to control the viscosity and flavor intensity. Try a sauce reduction of cherry juice mounded with demi-glazed tart cherries and finish it with a touch of butter to round out the flavors.

A perfect marinade for bone-in chicken is created with cherry juice, cracked black pepper, lemon juice, garlic, fresh rosemary and extra virgin olive oil. For a satisfying flavor, the marinated chicken should be prepared over coals on the grill.

Tart cherries are not just for chicken and red meat. A gastrique made from a reduction of cherry juice concentrate, sugar, balsamic vinegar, garlic and shallots is a nice match to a seared scallop or a grilled pork chop.

Tart cherries add color, viscosity, flavor and health  benefits to a range of applications. Using tart cherries in your next formulation could be the tart cherry on top of a great idea.

Charlie Baggs is president and founder of Charlie Baggs, Inc., an international foodservice consulting company. He has been part of the food industry for more than 20 years, serving as a distinguished speaker for The Institute of Food Technologists, the National Restaurant Association and The Research Chefs Association. He has been an Adjunct Professor at Purdue University for 7 years where he teaches Culinary Arts for the Food Scientist.

More recipes involving tart cherries are online at choosecherries.com.

Tart Cherry Concepts

1.             Berry good oatmeal

2.             Brandied cherries

3.             Cherry almond biscotti

4.             Cherry chutney

5.             Cherry lemonade

6.             Cherry fruit smoothie

7.             Cherry tofu smoothie

8.             Cherry yogurt smoothie

9.             Cherry-flavored breakfast shake

10.          Chewy cherry whole grain cereal bars

11.          Choco-cherry smoothies

12.          Dried cherry celery salad

13.          George Washington salad with cherries, pineapple, sour and cream cheese with sugar and nuts

14.          Heart-healthy granola power pancakes with super fruit salsa

15.          Hot mulled cherry and apple cider

16.          Lemon cherry scones

17.          Mango cherry avocado salad

18.          Oatmeal dried cherry chocolate cookies

19.          Red alert iced tea

20.          Red eye mojito

21.          Red recharger smoothie

22.          Sparkling red cherry punch

23.          Super fruit (cherry) lime muffins

24.          Sweet potatoes with cherry glaze.

25.          Tangy cherry sauce

26.          Tart cherry vinaigrette

27.          Tart cherry Manhattan

28.          Tart cherry beef sauce with chipotle and caramelized onion