Not Just a Cup O’ Joe

February 2003

Not Just a Cup O’ Joe

By Sarah MinasianContributing Editor

A sense of awareness is percolating amongst coffee drinkers. The “fill ‘er up again” mentality toward the commodity has evolved into, “I’ll have a triple tall skinny café latte with a shot of vanilla — to go.” Just as wine was once offered as either red or white, the days of choosing solely regular or decaffeinated coffee are slowly fading. Coffee, with the consumers’ educated palettes in tow, has entered the revered status of a food group in its own right. The flavored-coffee market is still booming; however, it seems a trend is brewing as high-brow specialty-coffee drinkers move away from the hazelnuts and amarettos of the world, and more toward unadulterated coffee. Coffee is hot, even if it is served chilled or on the rocks.

The New York-based National Coffee Association’s (NCA) annual “2001 National Coffee Drinking Trends Survey” says 52% of U.S. adults over 18 years of age drink coffee every day, representing 107 million daily drinkers. Of these, 29 million drink gourmet coffee beverages, whether specialty coffee, espresso-based beverages (latte, espresso, caffé mocha, cappuccino), or frozen and iced coffee beverages. Another 28%, or 57 million adults, drink coffee occasionally. Coffee drinkers consume, on average, 3.3 cups of coffee per day.

These nouveau coffee sophisticates are aware of coffee-bean types, and their inherent flavor and aroma characteristics, as well as the effects of various roasting methods. Similar to the microbrewery concept, coffee retail shops are opening up with in-store roasters — bringing the customers a little closer to the action. And, if drinkers don’t have time to sit and sip while listening to the snap, crackle and pop of the beans, they can always catch a buzz on the fly at a drive-through coffee store.

The results of the NCA survey also show the widespread appeal of coffee isn’t gender-specific, noting:• On a per-capita basis, men drink as much coffee as women (1.7 cups per day each).• Women are more excited about coffee varieties currently available, and a higher proportion of women indicated that drinking coffee is a good way to relax. Men appear to more readily attest that coffee helps “get things done.”

What’s happeningDemand for specialty coffees at table-service restaurants continues to grow. According to the Washington, D.C.-based National Restaurant Association’s (NRA) “Tableservice Restaurant Trends — 2001,” table-service restaurants with higher check averages are most likely to offer espresso and other specialty coffees. The survey notes 87% of full-service restaurants with average checks of $25 or more offer espresso or other specialty coffees, compared with 48% with average checks of $15 to $24.99, 23% with average checks of $8 to $14.99 and 13% with average checks of less than $8. Nearly two-thirds of consumers who order specialty coffees at table-service restaurants say they are buying more or the same amount compared with two years ago.

Quick-service restaurants continue to steep in the specialty-coffee action. According to the NRA’s “Quickservice Restaurant Trends — 2000,” more than half of quick-service operators surveyed agreed that espresso and other specialty coffees are gaining popularity in quick-service restaurants, ranking second among menu items most-frequently ordered. According to the NRA’s 2001 “Consumer Report on Eating Share Trends,” quick-service restaurants, including coffeehouses and bars, account for more than half of all restaurant occasions for which any type of coffee was ordered — holding a 75% share of restaurant orders of specialty coffee.

What’s on the menu?Neophyte specialty-coffee drinkers can be rather overwhelmed trying to decipher the language on a menu — especially before having their coffee.

The heart and soul of many specialty coffee drinks is the rich, concentrated coffee, espresso. Depending upon the operation, a serving generally consists of 1 oz. or 1.25 oz. of espresso, whereas ordering a doppio will get you a double dose of espresso. A cup of cappuccino has an espresso base, blended slightly with steamed milk and topped with milk foam. An Americano, or caffé Americano, is a shot of espresso combined with hot water, while chocolate and steamed milk mixed together with espresso, and topped off with whipped cream, produces caffé mocha. A latte is espresso mixed with steamed milk — hold the foam. A short latte refers to a single shot of espresso with less steamed milk; a tall latte is double shot of espresso with more steamed milk. Got it?

That’s just the principal hot coffee beverages — iced coffee drinks basically have the same ingredients as their hot relations, except that they’re served on ice. For example, an iced espresso is espresso on ice; an iced Americano is espresso and cold water served on ice; iced latte is espresso and whole milk served on ice; and iced cappuccino is espresso and whole milk served on ice, and topped with frothed milk. (Remember when iced coffee simply meant brewed coffee served over ice?)

Chillin’ outFrozen blended coffee drinks tossed their hat into the ring when Starbucks Corporation, Seattle, introduced its Frappuccino® ice-blended coffee drinks in 1995 with two flavors — coffee and mocha. It has extended the line and, according to Michelle Gass, vice president, beverage: “Over the past seven years, we have focused on innovation in this beverage category and have enjoyed great success. We offer a variety of Frappuccino ice-blended beverages year-round and also offer seasonal flavors as a special treat to our customers.”

Laura Shear, communications manager, R. Torre & Company, South San Francisco, CA, says: “Frozen coffee drinks are a craze that is not going away any time soon. We see this across the country and throughout the year — customers want frozen beverages, and in addition to fruit smoothies, they want frozen coffee and mocha drinks.” In April 2002, R. Torre launched Caffioco™, a frozen coffee blend under the Torani label. Made from 100% arabica coffee, real cream and Dutch cocoa, the basic drink recipe calls for ice and milk to be blended with the frozen coffee blend, producing a thick, rich, frozen drink. Operators can easily customize the basic recipe by adding one of Torani’s flavored syrups or sauces — such as a vanilla or cinnamon syrup, or white chocolate or caramel sauce. “In addition to blended or iced coffee drinks, Caffioco is also delicious in granita, blended with water, milk or a combination of the two,” says Shear. The product is shelf-stable and, once opened, has a shelf life of six months. Preportioned pumps will dispense 1 oz. each time, speeding prep time and providing portion control.

Taking coffee uptownIn addition to the types of mixed coffee drinks available, whether lattes or chilled concoctions, some coffeehouses now roast and brew their own beans in-house. In the April 2002 Specialty Coffee Retailer article “Seattle Style in Wisconsin,” co-owner George Krug of Ancora Coffee Roasters, Madison, WI, says: “It was like putting on a show with the green beans in burlap sacks surrounding the roaster, the roasting beans crackling and putting out their aroma. It was an educational opportunity for customers.”

Krug and partner Sue Lobeck’s Ancora Coffee Roasters seeks out and buys fine arabica beans from great coffee-growing regions from around the world, and roasts them in small batches. The company offers its coffees to nonchain coffeehouses and finer restaurants on a wholesale basis, along with complete training and support. The coffees are categorized under Africans, Indonesians, Americans, organic-origin coffees, organic blends, dark roasts, espressos and blended coffees.

The variety can astound those who typically waver between regular and French roast. Here is a partial list and description of the coffees Ancora Coffee Roasters offers:

Africans:• Ethiopia Moka Harrar - Rich, wild-berry flavors with distinctive spicy undertones.• Kenya AA Nyeri Kamoko - Distinctive wininess with hints of black currant and brambles.• Decaf Ethiopia Natural - Natural processing enhances the coffee’s body, and adds deep fruit flavors and excellent aroma.

Indonesians:• Celebes (Sulawesi) Kalossi Toraja - A unique combination of sweetness and earthiness with a buttery finish.• Estate Papua New Guinea - Harmonious and well-balanced with almost African-like fruit.• Sumatra Mandheling - Classic, broad, earthy tones with a heavy body and long finish.

Americans:• Costa Rica Tarrazu - Warm and rich, and reminiscent of flowers and citrus fruits.• El Salvador - Light-bodied and fragrant, with nicely balanced chocolate and fruity tones.• Guatemala Huehuetenango - Rich, smoky and mellow.

Organic-origin coffees:• Espresso Natura - Complex, sweet and lively, with chocolate and caramel tones.• French Roast - A hearty blend with intense, dark, chocolate tones.• French Sumatra - Soft, rich earthiness and a clean, pleasant smokiness.

Dark roasts:• Black and Tan - Full-bodied, rich and earthy, with just a touch of smokiness.• Black Thunder - A robust blend with a layer of bittersweet chocolate.• French Roast - A hearty, dark roast flavor with a sweet, elusive spiciness.

Espressos:• Dolce - Silky, sweet espresso that is excellent as a straight shot.• Forte - Blended in the Italian tradition to create a bold, robust espresso.• Rosa - Features surprising fruitiness with strong chocolate tones.

Blended coffees:• Ancora d’Oro - House blend features complexity, depth and moderate acidity; also offered with half the caffeine.• Original Moka Java – Classically beautiful old blend balances Yemen Moka and Estate Java.• Red Sea Blend - Complex and interesting, with the vibrant citrus tones and exotic spices found in coffees from the Arabian Peninsula.

The gathering This variety begins with the coffee bean, the cherry-like fruit obtained from a tree that grows in a narrow belt around the world. Most of the world’s coffee grows in Africa, Southeast Asia (Indonesia) and Latin America, between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. The two main commercially significant species of coffee are Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora, referred to as robusta. The coffee beans’ fruit ripens at different times, so they are mainly picked laboriously by hand. Approximately 2,000 arabica cherries, each containing two beans, produce 1 lb. of roasted coffee. The average tree produces 1 to 2 lbs. of roasted coffee per year — taking four to five years to produce its first crop.

Arabica represents approximately 70% of the world’s coffee production. This species produces superior-quality coffees typically containing half the caffeine of robusta beans. Typica and Bourbon are the two best-known arabica varieties, but growers have developed many strains, including Caturra from Brazil and Columbia, Mundo Novo from Brazil, Tico from Central America and Blue Mountain from Jamaica.

Robusta coffee grows in West and Central Africa; Southeast Asia; and parts of South America, including Brazil. Robusta trees are easier to grow than some other types. They produce a higher yield of beans, which possess a woody, astringent flavor and are generally used when a lower price or additional caffeine is desired.

The roasting metamorphosisRoasting transforms green coffee beans into the brown beans we recognize as coffee. Using air temperatures of approximately 550º F, the beans are kept moving during the roasting process to prevent burning. When they reach 400º F, the beans start turning a darker brown and begin emitting oils, called coffee essence, coffee oil or caffeol. This is considered the heart of roasting — producing the flavor and aroma of the coffee that we drink.

Roasting is a skill that can take years to perfect. Expert roasters have acquired skills to read the beans and make split-second “perfect-roast” decisions — many consider this ability an art form. Ancora calls this Small-Batch Artisan Roasting™ and believes that catching the beans at the apex of their flavor development, or “sweet spot,” requires the careful attention of an experienced roaster. “The thing that separates us from larger operations and chains is that we truly roast to order and start with the best-quality green coffees available. We buy all our beans based on the taste. We cup samples and we choose what we think offers the best flavor profile,” notes Krug in the aforementioned Specialty Coffee Retailer article.

Roasted beans generally fall into one of four color categories: light, medium, medium-dark or dark. The darker the roast, the less acidity that results in the coffee beverage. Light roasts are generally preferred for milder coffee varieties. No oil coats the beans because they are not roasted long enough for the oils to break through to the surface. Medium roasts, commonly referred to as the American roast, are medium-brown in color with a stronger flavor and nonoily surface. Medium-dark roasts offer a rich, dark color with some surface oil and a slight bittersweet aftertaste. Dark roasts resemble shiny black beans that have an oily surface and pronounced bitterness.

To flavor or not to flavorTo further expand the coffee spectrum, many companies offer flavored beans. Lisa Taake, applications manager, Danisco USA, Inc., New Century, KS, says: “We sell our flavors to the roaster, and the roaster applies the flavor after the beans have been roasted and cooled. Some may grind the beans first and then add the flavor, or apply the flavor to whole beans and then grind.” She adds that 4% to 5% of all coffee sold today is flavored.

Takke believes that most flavored-coffee drinkers are women, and that the flavored-coffee craze started around 15 years ago, when people started adding shots of Irish-cream- and hazelnut-flavored liqueurs to their coffee. “People liked the flavor but they didn’t want the alcohol that came along with it,” she says. “Back then customers were happy to just have something new and different, but now they are more discerning. We refer to those flavors as first generation — very harsh, simple flavors.” She notes Danisco is now in its fifth generation of coffee flavors, which “are less harsh and have evolved into having sweet, creamy attributes — making flavors more palatable.” Its top flavors are vanilla and hazelnut, followed by French vanilla, cinnamon hazelnut and Irish cream.

In May 2002, Danisco launched a new line of coffee flavors specifically designed to match the mood of the season. For example, homemade vanilla ice cream and caramel corn were some of the summer flavors introduced. The seasonal-flavors campaign was developed to create partnerships with roasters to help build their business, providing them a way to test-market new concepts before permanently adding them to their offerings. Benefits of the flavors include a zero caloric contribution, a positive organoleptic impression, heat-stability against the 180º F or higher temperatures found in the brewing process, and the eye appeal of coating the beans with a glossy sheen.

Pouring on the flavorWhen it comes to consumers requesting flavored syrups, Julie Fells, director of marketing services, Starbucks, says: “It’s still in demand; however, you still have your purists — it’s very specific person by person. When I’m in line, one of the most popular beverages I always hear people order is a vanilla latte — that or a hazelnut latte.”

Starbucks offers an extensive customized foodservice program, with the bulk of its accounts in business and industry. “We pride ourselves on customizing our program to the needs of the specific business account, from marketing materials to the coffees and equipment solutions — helping set them up and focus on whatever their needs are,” says Fells.

Starbucks only buys arabica beans and roasts them to “the second pop, where we feel most of the flavor is,” says Fells. “The most popular coffee that we offer is our house blend — a bright, light- to medium-bodied blend of Latin American coffees. Our decaf house blend is our second-best seller.”

Reflecting on new-product development for the company, Gass says: “There are several factors to consider when developing new beverages/products, including current food, fashion, cultural, regional and demographic trends, as well as what is occurring in entertainment and the restaurant industry. We look for factors that may impact customer behavior. In addition, we examine sales potential, and if a new beverage and/or product meets the needs of our customers.”

Finding the spiritSome like their coffee drinks to pack more than just a caffeine punch. In July 2002, Allied Domecq Spirits North America, Westport, CT, launched Especial, a higher-octane coffee liqueur under the Kahlúa® brand. The new 70-proof, black-label version of the classic Kahlúa is handcrafted from 100% arabica coffee beans and roasted in small batches. Jana Gabe Masone, promotions manager, says: “Especial is better suited for straight or on the rocks, as Kahlúa is better suited for mixed cocktails, coffee or baking. You want to taste it on it’s own; you want to sip and savor it like a fine wine — not disguise it by mixing it.”

Masone describes Especial’s taste as “having an instant sweet, followed by dark chocolate, caffé mocha and bold spirit. The aroma is a sophisticated blend of vanilla, caramel, light coffee and rum.” She says the liqueur, which is targeted toward men and women ages 30 to 44, now offers foodservice providers two different opportunities to use Kahlúa — one for sipping and savoring, and one for cocktails, coffee and baking.

Who would have thought coffee would rise to such astounding heights? Once drunk simply for the burst of energy it provides, developers of coffee beverages now must take into account the fickle tastes of consumers when creating something new. As a result, it seems as though whether it’s an iced cappuccino or just a plain cup of black coffee, in the 21st century, there is a variety of Joe for every Tom, Dick and Mary.

Sarah Minasian, a chef and food communicator, is a Madison, WI-based foodservice consultant who specializes in writing about diverse food and foodservice-industry topics, as well as recipe development and food styling.

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