Cooking Up Some Nutty Ideas

August 2003

Cooking Up Some Nutty Ideas

By Brian Yager

We’ve all heard the jingle, “Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don’t.” However, if statistics and menus are any indication, then we as chefs and product developers need to mind the first part of this ditty. According to the Economic Research Service of the USDA, per capita consumption of tree nuts has grown significantly from 1980 to 2001. As a matter of fact, the consumption of certain nuts has doubled since the early 1980s — namely almonds, macadamias and pistachios. Other tree nuts have remained fairly constant through the decades; walnuts and pecans’ consumption patterns have held steady for about 20 years. As a vegetarian, I have personally learned to incorporate more nuts into my daily diet, and it really wasn’t difficult. I did this for many of the reasons talked about here.

Before we proceed, we must clarify certain nomenclature. Botanically speaking, nuts are one-seeded “fruits” such as acorns, chestnuts and hazelnuts. Commonly, the word “nut” is used for any seed or fruit having an edible kernel surrounded by a hard or brittle covering. In common usage, many of what we call nuts are not nuts at all, but kernels (pits, seeds or even legumes) covered by a hard coating. Peanuts, for example, are technically legumes; Brazil nuts are actually multiple seeds within a pod; and almonds are pits. Nevertheless, we commonly refer to these, along with cashews, pecans, pistachios and walnuts, as nuts, and so, for this article, I will do the same — after all, this is not a botany class.

Nut-ritional benefitsPeople have consumed nuts for as long as food-usage documentation goes back. In fact, our early prehistoric ancestors sought out nuts during their “hunting and gathering” ventures. One reason is that nuts are high in fat. However, this can be good or bad. The good part is that nuts provide a great source of nutrients, especially fats. This comes in handy when you are not sure where your next meal will come from (not something today’s hominids have to worry about). The bad part is that because of high fats content, care must be taken when handling, storing and preparing nuts for present-day consumption, because the oils are very susceptible to rancidity.

Fortunately, most of the fats in tree nuts, approximately 80%, consist of the “good kind.” That is, unsaturated (both monounsaturated and polyunsaturated). Unsaturated fats have been found to assist in the prevention of coronary heart disease. They help lower LDL (bad) cholesterol levels while maintaining the level of HDL (good) cholesterol, thus promoting a good LDL/HDL ratio.

In addition to the beneficial fats, nuts are good sources of many other nutrients, such as vitamins B1 and B2, calcium, iron, potassium, and the all too-elusive essential fatty acids. In fact, nuts are so nutritious, they remind me of the soybean (which can also be processed and used as a sort of nut, but that’s another story).

On the culinary side Nuts are extremely nutritious, but do the benefits stop there? If they did, this article would be finished. However, using nuts in product and recipe development goes beyond nutrition. Product designers can obtain a true culinary benefit when using nuts. Think about all the dishes that use nuts: for improved texture (Think of the crunch of walnuts in a green salad.); flavor (Where would baklava or Turtles be without nuts?); appearance enhancement (Picture that wonderful gateau with sliced natural almonds on the side.); and last, but not least, customer perception.

To consumers, nuts increase the value and quality of the dish. Consider this: How often do you see nuts on a menu for an upscale restaurant vs. the menu for a cafeteria? OK, some cafeterias are using more nuts, but that proves my original point. One more salient point: Nuts are very versatile, and can adapt to every meal period, from cereals and snacks to main entrées and desserts.

One characteristic must not be overlooked or minimized when designing products with nuts: their allergenicity. A portion of the populace has an allergy to tree nuts and peanuts; both of these appear on the list of the eight most-common allergies. Some allergic reactions may be benign, but others can be fatal, so everyone involved with the production of nut-containing products must understand the seriousness of the issue. The federal government mandates that all products containing nuts be so labeled to alert those with nut allergies. Manufacturers and foodservice operators must also be vigilant when preparing items without nuts in the vicinity of products that do contain nuts, to avoid transferring small amounts of nuts to the wrong product. Actually, items prepared close to nut-containing products are labeled as such; look at the label on plain M&M’s. Bottom line: Err on the side of safety, as it only takes a small amount of nuts to initiate an allergic response.

Storage and usageNuts’ high fat content, and unsaturated fats in particular, makes them very susceptible to oxidative rancidity. Therefore, to prolong shelf life, storage is a major consideration. Most end users buy their nuts already shelled; this further compounds the storage issue. Unshelled, nuts will keep quite easily at room temperature for about one year. However, removing the protective shell exposes the nuts to oxygen, which hastens oxidation. Shelled nuts, either natural or blanched, are best stored at around 40¾F and 50% relative humidity. Buying smaller quantities, and thereby increasing turnover, also helps ensure freshness.

All nuts are available in a plethora of forms, shapes and sizes. When choosing a nut to work with, some things must be considered carefully. Nuts have two general forms: blanched and natural. Blanching nuts removes the papery skins from the meat, or kernel. Natural nuts, on the other hand, have their papery skins intact.

When do you use one over the other? It’s a matter of personal preference, but here are some rules of thumb to follow. Natural nuts, especially almonds, are used when you want or need the contrast in color produced by the skin. In addition, natural nuts usually have a more intense nut flavor than blanched. Blanched nuts work best when you want a subtler flavor and a contrast in color for a darker product — say for a chocolate, cherry and almond cake, where slices of blanched, sliced almonds on top of ganache rosettes make a perfect garnish.

Heating nuts prior to use to releases volatile aromas that increase flavor. Warming can be accomplished by toasting in the oven, or by dry sautéing on the stovetop. Take care, however, not to toast a nut too long or it will impart a horrendous, bitter, burnt flavor to the dish. If practical, I recommend the oven method. Spread the nuts out on a pan in a single layer, place in a 300¾F oven and roast, mixing periodically, until they achieve the desired color. Time will vary based on the type of nut, the cut and the desired finished color.

Nuts need not toast until browned to develop full flavor. However, longer toasting will impart deeper brown notes. Briefly warming the nuts in the oven before adding them to batters will also help prevent them from sinking to the bottom. While some scenarios preclude the possibility of the warming step (especially in manufacturing), for recipe development, I believe heating the nuts is worth the effort.

At least some part of virtually every nut is bitter — the skin of a walnut or the small kernel in peanuts. I remember a peanut-butter commercial from years ago that showed someone removing the small, bitter kernel from the peanut with a toothpick. The ad’s point was that the company spared no expense to produce a smooth, sweet peanut butter. The bitter parts are edible, but need to be accounted for during recipe and/or formula development.

Nuts on paradeThus far, we have covered some of nuts’ benefits, drawbacks and handling issues. Now let’s take a closer look at the nuts themselves to pique your curiosity and creativity. The information is not all-encompassing, but merely a simple primer.

Almonds. The almond is related to the peach, cherry and plum. Almonds are a good source of proteins, D-alpha tocopherol, folic acid, potassium, fiber and essential fatty acids. There are two types of almonds, each with completely different uses.

Sweet almonds are the traditional “eating” variety. From this almond come the familiar slivers, slices, diced nuts, whole nuts, meal and flour. It is available both natural and blanched. Jordan almonds are actually a type grown in Spain, though many use that name for the candy-coated variety.

Bitter almonds contain an oil that, after treating with water, yields an essential oil that is refined for use in extracts and liqueurs. Because, like apricot pits, raw bitter almonds contain small amounts of toxic prussic acid that is destroyed by heat, they are not sold as eating nuts in the United States.

The rich and buttery taste of almonds pairs well with too many flavors to list, but try chocolate, raspberries, vegetables, fish and chicken. For a more intense flavor, use natural almonds.

Brazil nuts. The Brazil-nut tree grows in the wild and yields large, 2- to 4-lb. fruits, each containing 12 to 22 triangular nuts arranged similar to oranges. Heating by boiling or baking, then subsequently cooling the nuts, can make the tough shell easier to crack. Brazil nuts have one of the highest fat contents of the tree nuts, more than 65%. They also provide a good source of folic acid, calcium and magnesium and an excellent source of selenium.

They are traditionally used in ice cream, chocolate, bakery dishes and confectionery applications. Some compare the taste of Brazil nuts to that of coconut. Try using them along with cashews for an interesting combination.

Cashews. The cashew is related to poison ivy and poison sumac. The nuts have an edible, irritating, film on them that must be burned off after harvesting.

Most cashews grown today are used for snacking. However, try this cashew butter recipe in baked goods, such as a filling for pastries or cookies, or try incorporating it into a stuffing for chicken breast. Grind 112 cups of raw cashews in small batches. Remove to a blender or processor. Add about 14 cup of soybean oil very slowly while mixing or blending at medium speed. The quantity of oil will vary — add just enough to obtain the desired consistency, usually that of peanut butter. Season with salt.

Cashew’s almost delicate flavor is reminiscent of butter. The nut pairs well with chicken, meat, oranges, chocolate and cereals — try topping some fresh hot cereal with chopped cashews and dried raspberries.

Chestnuts. These nuts contain higher amounts of starch and less fat than other tree nuts. Years ago, most domestic chestnuts were grown in the Eastern United States. However, chestnut blight eliminated most of these plantings. Chinese and Japanese chestnuts are now the main source for the edible nuts.

The original polenta was reportedly made with ground chestnuts; this changed once maize was introduced commercially.

Not just for the holidays, try these wonderful nuts in stuffing and to add texture to vegetable and rice side dishes. Chestnuts offer the developer an interesting flavor mix — meaty, a little fruity and buttery. This combination will introduce a new dimension to dishes that contain fowl, game and salads. Chestnut butter will add a very nice flavor to dishes, and helps maintain moistness in baked goods.

Hazelnuts. Different trees in the same family produce hazelnuts and filberts; however, the nuts are so similar that they have become synonymous. Hazelnuts have the most protein of all of the tree nuts. Try substituting them for walnuts and almonds in recipes.

The hazelnut has a buttery, sweet flavor with hints of “mocha.” In addition, hazelnuts add a rich-tasting crunch to any dish. They work well in ice cream and sweet sauces, and when chopped, add texture to breads and rolls.

Be careful to not overprocess nuts when making hazelnut butter, as the oil separates out easily, making a heavy end product. This butter can be used as part of a filling for baked goods, such as cakes, and also makes an interesting spread for canapés and wraps.

Macadamias. Their long maturation time make macadamias the most expensive tree nuts. A macadamia tree requires more than five years to produce fruit, and up to 15 years to reach full maturation. The tree originated in Australia, but conditions in Hawaii are ideal for growth. Since the trees flower in waves, the macadamia harvest can last for up to six months. The macadamia nut is purported have the toughest shell to crack. Due to their high fat content, a one-ounce serving, about 12 nuts, contains 199 calories.

Most macadamias are consumed as an adult snack. However, try them in ice cream, cookies and salads. The flavor is creamy and sweet, but a little salty. Macadamias are usually sold roasted and whole, but they can also be eaten raw.

Pecans. The only tree nut native to the United States, the pecan’s native habitat includes the central, southern region of the country, namely Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi. The pecan tree is in the same family as the walnut tree; hundreds of varieties can be found, including small, large, hard-shelled and soft-shelled.

Taking advantage of pecans’ rich, almost meaty flavor in dishes is also an easy way to add nutrition, as these nuts are a good source of fiber and zinc, in addition to calcium and iron. Try substituting pecans, which are available as halves or pieces, in recipes that call for walnuts. They are great in pies (as in the ultimate in pies, pecan pie), cookies, stuffing and salads, or with fish, fowl and veal. Pecans are also available as granules and meal. The granules work well as part of a coating system for chicken, fish and fruits; try coating a seedless Thompson grape with blue cheese and rolling it in pecan granules. Pecan meal makes a nutritious replacement for part of the whole wheat in breads, muffins and cookies.

Pistachios. According to ancient authorities, these nuts are an aphrodisiac; however, no data substantiate this belief. After processing, pistachio shells are actually white — the red color comes from a dye — but the nutmeat retains its greenish hue.

Pistachios are popularly consumed as a snack, preferably with a cold beer. However, they work great in ice cream, cakes, cookies and puddings, and with vegetables. A good source of fiber, pistachios also provide a fair amount of potassium in each serving. Take advantage of their slightly astringent flavor by complementing them with sweet flavors.

Peanuts. Actually a legume, peanuts contain up to 22% protein and are low in carbohydrates, for the benefit of low carb dieters. They’re also a good source of folic acid, magnesium and niacin. In Virginia, certain pigs are fed peanuts to produce the famous Smithfield Hams. Southerners boil the green immature peanuts in weak brine, which they drink immediately.

Peanuts are available dry- or oil-roasted, lightly salted, or salted. With so many choices available, plus the peanut’s wide acceptance, you can use these virtually anywhere. The many cuisines of the world use peanuts extensively to offer appearance, texture and flavor: The traditional Thai dish, pad thai, is a prime example. Also, try peanuts with strong-flavored vegetables such as broccoli, winter squashes and cabbage. They also add a new depth to meat stews. In fact, in Philippine cuisine, peanut butter flavors a stew made with beef. A fruit salad will benefit from the addition of some crushed peanuts, as would a green salad, especially one that contains spinach.

Walnuts. My personal favorite, the walnut, is available in two major types, American black and English. Up to 99% of domestic commercial walnuts are grown in California, many just east of San Francisco. Both walnut varieties have high levels of vitamin E, but black walnuts contain more protein. Furthermore, walnuts contain one of the highest concentrations of polyunsaturated fats (nearly seven times more polyunsaturates than saturates). They are also an important source of fiber, and a good source of minerals (namely potassium, zinc and phosphorous) and vitamin B6.

The American black walnut is often regarded as the national tree of the United States (even though the pecan tree is the only native nut tree.) Its nut has a stronger flavor than the English variety.

English walnuts actually originated in Persia, but are named after the English merchant marines who transported the nuts globally. These are the most predominant of walnuts, and have a subtler flavor than the American black variety. Both walnuts are available as halves and pieces.

The skin on the nutmeats gives walnuts a slightly astringent flavor. They are often found in chocolate-chip cookies and brownies.

Nutty applicationsIn addition to cookies and confectionery products, nuts can be found in some interesting places, including mole, a traditional Mexican sauce that utilizes ground nuts as the thickener. Other sauces can also be thickened with ground nuts — try ground hazelnuts in a Crème Anglaise served with chocolate cake. In addition to their use in fillings, add nut butters to batters to improve the flavor, moistness and texture (mouthfeel) of the finished product.

Many nuts are sold in different grades, such as Fancy or Select. Choose the best one for the particular application, based on price, flavor and appearance. Nuts are very versatile — think outside the box. Don’t let the fat content paralyze you. Remember, although high in fat, nuts are usually consumed in small quantities. And finally, don’t use nuts just for desserts — try them in all dishes.

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