Carried Away With Caraway

June 2001

Carried Away With Caraway

Caraway actually was a favorite European spice for thousands of years before Shakespeare mentioned it in 1598: “Nay, you shall see my orchard where, in an arbour, we will eat a last year’s pippin of mine own grafting, with a dish of caraways, and so forth…” Henry IV, Part 2, Act V, Scene 3.In fact, references to caraway in ancient texts go back many centuries before any English citations, though some believe that caraway was cultivated and consumed longer than any other condiment in England. Archeologists have excavated caraway seeds at ancient lake dwellings in Switzerland, giving testimony to the plant’s European antiquity.A native of Europe and western Asia, caraway has been cultivated from Sicily to northern Scandinavia since the Middle Ages, and used in seed cakes, breads, and cabbage and bean dishes. The “Form of Cury,” a record of ancient English cookery compiled by King Richard II’s master cooks circa 1390, mentions caraway in its text. Edible caraway root once was considered superior to the parsnip. Some believed that putting caraway in an object would prevent the theft of that object; hence, caraway potions kept lovers from straying, and pigeons and chickens from flying the coop. Discorides, a Greek physician and herbalist who lived in the first century, recommended caraway oil as a tonic for pale girls. It was en vogue during Shakespeare’s era — highly popular and more widely used then than today.What is caraway?Caraway is the seed-like fruit of the Carum carvi, a biennial or annual herb in the parsley family (Apiaceae or Umbelliferae). It has a distinctive odor similar to anise, and a warm, slightly sharp taste. Because the annual variety matures late and has relatively poor seed-yields, the biennial plant is the type commercially grown in most areas.Caraway grows best in a moderately light clay soil that is rich in humus and well-tilled. Harvesting often is done early in the morning. A cover crop that matures in the first season — mustard, poppy, beans, white clover or coriander — often is sown simultaneously to improve the economics of growing biennial caraway. The cover crop matures more quickly and is harvested before the caraway sends up its flowering stems. The flowers usually appear in May or June and harvesting takes place about two months later.In the seeding year, biennial caraway plants resemble carrots, growing to about 8-in. (20 cm) tall with finely divided leaves and a long taproot. By the second year, 2- to 3-ft. (60 to 90 cm) stalks develop, topped by compound umbels with small pink or white flowers. Fully developed, flowering caraway plants produce seeds, which are used as the spice. The ridged, crescent-shaped seeds range from 0.1 to 0.2 in., have five pale ridges, and are somewhat horny and translucent. They should have a uniform shape and consistent light- to dark-brown color between each ridge. After being cut and before threshing, the seed stalks are stacked in piles for about 10 days to complete ripening and drying.Caraway is grown in temperate tropical climates, including northern Europe, Russia, Jamaica, India, Canada and the United States. Holland is an important commercial caraway-seed source. Today, Canada supplies much of the U.S. caraway consumers; other supply sources include the Czech Republic and Germany.Types of carawayThe biennial variety is the most commercially marketed caraway spice because of its easy cultivation and higher essential-oil yield. Biennial-plant seeds contain 2% to 5% essential oil, which is what provides the spice’s distinctive flavor. The oil composition is 50% to 70% carvone (the principal constituent of the essential oil), and about 30% limonene. Generally, the farther north the growing region, the higher the essential-oil content. Full sun also results in higher oil content.Using carawayAs with any spice, consult a reputable supplier to ensure a high-quality product suitable for production needs.Caraway seeds, which taste simultaneously sweet, biting and acrid, are a favorite flavoring in rye breads. They also flavor cakes, cookies, biscuits, cheese and applesauce. Europeans add caraway to several cheese varieties, particularly Muenster, Gouda and other soft Dutch cheeses. The seeds also are used to prepare sauerkraut, Irish stew, Alsatian beans and Hungarian goulash.Caraway oil, which usually is extracted from the seed by steam distillation, flavors meat dishes, sausages, perfumes, mouthwash and gargle preparations, and is an essential ingredient in some alcoholic beverages, including kümmel and aquavit. Medicinally, caraway oil is used as an aromatic stimulant and carminative. Its antibacterial properties are highly prized in India, where it is used to make soap. Because carvone can be produced synthetically, caraway-oil usage has declined in recent years.Handling carawayCaraway seed and caraway-seed oil should be stored in a cool, dry place to protect flavor. Date the containers when they arrive, so that older stock is used first. Store product off the floor and away from the walls to minimize dampness and contamination. Under good storage conditions, the product’s aroma and flavor will be retained long enough to meet any normal food-manufacturing requirements.

Spice Rack is based on the American Spice Trade Association's What You Should Know informational series on spices. For more information, call 201-568-2163, or visit www.astaspice.org.

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