Applications - September 2004 - Chewy Confections

August 2004

Chewy Confections

By Peter DeaContributing Editor

Gumdrops and lemon drops -- although both are candies, a gumdrop eats differently than a lemon drop. While you may chew on the former, you probably wouldn't the latter. Part of picking candy is based on how interactive you want it to be. That is -- at least for this discussion -- do you want to chew it? When it comes to satisfying our need for a bite-sized sweet treat that also fulfills our desire to chew, it's chewy confections that meet these requirements.

Excluding chewing gums, the most common chewy confections include jellies, caramels and nougats, and taffies. Within these groups lie a wide variety of shapes, flavors, textures and sizes. In addition to their broad appeal as traditional confections, chewy treats also find popularity in additional segments as a delivery means for vitamins, minerals and other nutraceutical ingredients. And with the current trend of low-carb lifestyles, sugar-free chewy confections are enjoying new interest. The technology for producing these sweet treats has existed for a long time. But, to implement the knowledge for new applications, it's beneficial to have a good understanding of the basic formulae and processes for each type.

Back to basics According to Henry Nonaka, senior technical sales support manager, Corn Products International, Bedford Park, IL: "Combinations of three sweeteners -- sucrose, 42 DE, and 63 DE corn syrups -- are the basis for about every cooked confectionery product. To a lesser extent, high-maltose and high-fructose corn syrups (HFCS) can be used." In combination with moisture content, confectioners vary the amounts of these ingredients to begin creating candies with different textures and eating characteristics.

"The range of sucrose to corn-syrup ratios can be very wide, depending on the product characteristics targeted and often on the other ingredients and their interaction with the sweeteners," says Nonaka. "For most applications though, the range is probably from 60:40 to 40:60."

Formulations tending toward higher sugar ratios are designed for grained confections. These products have a portion of the sugar purposely crystallized out, creating a candy with a soft, short texture. Nongrained confections have higher ratios of corn syrup to sucrose, to inhibit the sucrose's crystallization. A stable nongrained candy will have all the sucrose in solution in the product's syrup phase throughout its shelf life. Besides creating stability to crystallization, corn syrup also provides a degree of chewiness to candies. The majority of chewy confections exist as nongrained candies.

Gelling the concept From the ubiquitous jellybean to the old-fashioned licorice whip, we're all familiar with the wide array of jelly candy products. They're created with different gelling agents and offer characteristic textures. Most of us relate to gummy candy's unique firm, yet springy, texture when thinking of these candies.

Like all jelly candies, gummy candies, such as gummy bears or gummy worms, begin with corn syrup and sugar. To give these cooked liquid saccharide ingredients structure, they are combined with a gelling agent to entrap the liquid syrup in a matrix and thereby give form to the confection. Gummies traditionally use the protein material, gelatin, as the gelling agent. In addition to the basic ingredients of corn syrup, sucrose and gelatin, they typically also contain an acidulant, flavorings and colors.

To control crystallization, gummy candies usually have a ratio of 60% corn syrup to 40% sucrose. While 42 DE corn syrup offers better control against crystallization, 63 DE corn syrup, with a higher percentage of reducing sugars, offers better protection from drying out. To compensate, when using 42 DE corn syrup, manufacturers may add small amounts of reducing sugar in the form of dextrose, fructose or HFCS to enhance humectancy. However, don't be too liberal with these ingredients, as excess amounts of some of these monosaccharide ingredients may lead to sweating, stickiness and softer products. Nonaka further cautions: "It is critical when working with any of these syrups, one needs to be aware of the chemical and physical properties of the syrup and how it impacts the final product. For example, changing from a 42 to a 63 DE syrup generally results in a slightly sweeter, softer product and, if used with protein ingredients, will yield a darker product."

Many commercial gummy candies include sorbitol, a sugar alcohol commonly used in sugar-free candies. "Sorbitol acts as a humectant and doctoring agent (anticrystallizing), which keeps the sucrose from crystallizing in the gummy candy to promote better shelf life and texture," says Peter Jamieson, research scientist, SPI Polyols, Inc., New Castle, DE.

Gelatin choices Gelatins for gummy-type confections come in many different varieties, including animal origin, granulation size and bloom strength. Type A gelatins, derived from pigskin and pig bones, usually are favored over Type B gelatins, derived from calfskin and beef bones. Type A has an isoelectric point around pH 7 to 9, while Type B has an isoelectric point about 4.7 to 5.0. Since most gummy candies have an acidic flavor and thus require a low pH, using Type B gelatins, with an isoelectric point in an acidic range, may result in a cloudy gel.

Gummy candies typically contain 175 to 250 bloom gelatin. All else being equal, the higher the bloom strength, the stronger the gel formed. Selecting different bloom strengths affects the finished product's texture and flavor. Lower bloom-strength gelatins tend to produce softer, stringier gels while higher ones result in firmer, tougher and more-brittle gels. "Bloom strength affects flavor release. The higher bloom gives a tougher texture," says Carter D. Foss, applications and culinary manager, Mastertaste, Inc., Los Angeles. "The tougher a texture, the slower the release of the flavor; so a lower bloom would release its flavor faster due to its breaking down faster. However, lower bloom strengths can have an off-taste and aroma, so higher-bloom gelatin is generally preferred."

"High process temperatures and low pH can adversely affect gelatin strength," says John Fenstermacher, senior market development specialist, PURAC America, Lincolnshire, IL. "Adding a buffer prior to cooking or to the acid solution will raise the pH without affecting sourness, thus minimizing the loss of gel strength. When a gummy is well buffered, you could even reduce the amount of gelatin in your recipe or use a lower bloom."

Since gelatin is heat-labile, manufacturers normally don't cook it with the sweeteners. Rather, they'll first soak gelatin in heated water, about 130? to140?F, to fully solubilize the protein. This process also deaerates the gelatin to produce a clear solution, important for producing candies with good clarity.

To prepare the candy, manufacturers cook the mixture of sweeteners to a solids content in excess of the desired solids of the finished product and then cool it to less than the boiling point of water. They then add the clear gelatin solution to the cooked syrup. The gelatin solution's excess water dilutes the cooked syrup to achieve a solids content of about 2% to 3% lower than the desired solids of the finished candy. Manufacturers then add and mix in acid flavoring ingredients, such as citric, malic or lactic acids, along with other flavors and colors. After flavoring, they deposit the finished slurry into starch molds, and the jellies are allowed to set completely over a 24-hour period, allowing the gelatin to set. Since gelatin is thermally sensitive, the jellies must set in the molds at room temperature. Moisture is drawn into the dry starch mold to achieve the desired finished solids of 80% to 82%. The jellies are removed from the starch mold, cleaned by brushing and oiled in a light coating of a tropical fat, such as coconut or palm kernel oil, or food-grade mineral oil and beeswax. For flavor enhancement, Foss suggests, "if having a problem getting the flavor to come across up front, then add an oil-based flavor to your coating oil."

In addition to varying the type or amount of gelatin, another means of modifying texture in gummy jellies is by combining gelatin with another hydrocolloid, such as starch or pectin. Typically, this shortens the candy's texture and offers a softer bite to the piece, which is common in "fruit snack" type jellies.

Also, although gelatin by far is the preferred colloid for gummy-type candies, for consumers who prefer not to eat candies formulated with this animal-based protein, confectioners can look to other colloids to approximate the eating qualities of gelatin gummies. Indeed, gummy-like candies are available using agar, pectin, starch or gellan.

Caramels milk the system Caramels, like jellies, start off with corn syrup and sugar, but now include two additional basic confectionery ingredients: fat and milk. As we'll see momentarily, caramels are really an emulsion of fat droplets in a syrup solution of sugars and hydrated milk proteins. Traditional caramels are nongrained confections with about 6% to 12% water and should not have a crystalline dry phase. Ratios of corn syrup and sugar are usually at about equal proportions to inhibit crystallization and provide chew. Adding milk to a caramel recipe contributes to their distinct characteristics in several ways. "Milk is considered the most-important ingredient in caramel," says Joanne Sullivan, confections R&D project leader, Kraft Food Ingredients Corp., Memphis, TN. "Milk contributes protein, which provides body or 'stand-up' properties."

While chewy caramels typically are cooked to a higher temperature than jelly candies, (typically from 235? to 250?F or higher), the absence of a gelling agent in a basic caramel formula means nothing will hold the syrupy mass together. Enter the colloidal solution of the milk proteins which, when heated along with the sugars, create protein-to-protein and protein-to-sugar interactions to build a network that imparts body and structure, resistance to cold flow, and chewiness. The proteins also help create and stabilize the fat-in-water emulsion.

"Milk protein reacts with reducing sugars (lactose from milk, and dextrose, maltose and fructose from added sugars, sucrose and corn syrups) to form the Maillard reaction, where caramel color and flavor is developed," adds Sullivan.

"Most corn syrups will undergo reaction when in the presence of proteinaceous ingredients. It is actually the dextrose in the syrup that is the reactive species," says Nonaka. "That is why a high-maltose corn syrup will give a lighter color than a comparable 'regular' conversion syrup, even if it is higher in DE. In a confection, such as caramels, though, color and flavor development is desired; consequently, it would be preferable to use a 63 DE syrup, or add dextrose or HFCS to the formula, if one wanted to increase these qualities."

A broad selection of milk is available for caramel processing. "The choice of milk depends upon cost, availability, manufacturer needs and the desired finished product. Liquid skim or whole milk are high in moisture and require longer boiling, and so are not typically used," says Sullivan.  

The prolonged cook required with these milks would result in excessive inversion of the sugar and excessive browning, as well as require excessive expenditure of energy. More common is the use of sweetened condensed milk, which typically has only about 30% water and is available in both full-fat and fat-free versions. Condensed milks also have higher viscosities, which aids in maintaining an emulsion and produces a smoother caramel.

Dry-milk powders are an economical choice, but they require careful reconstitution before use. Without proper reconstitution, the milk proteins will not be hydrated and form the necessary colloidal solution required for a smooth caramel.

Smaller manufacturers or retail confectionery shops often choose evaporated milk. Although it is relatively high in water compared to condensed milks, it is readily available, has long shelf life and, when used properly, can make good-quality caramels.

Fattening it up The second major ingredient added to a basic caramel formula is fat. Traditionally, caramel products contain hard tropical fats or partially hydrogenated domestic oils (although negative label perceptions with consumers may lead to more use of the nonhydrogenated tropical fats).

Fats are present in a caramel mass as a fine dispersion of droplets in the water-based syrup matrix. They contribute to the caramel's character in numerous ways. On its own, fat also provides a degree of body to the cooked syrup, helping to control cold flow. It also provides lubricity. Without fat, a caramel would be rather inedible, being very dark, stiff and sticky. Finally, adds Sullivan, "Dairy fat, contributed by milk and butter, provides important flavor," that is characteristic of high-quality caramels.

Mixing things up Creating the protein network is important to producing good-quality caramels. Often, this begins by preparing a good emulsion of the fat and dispersion of the milk protein. When using condensed milk, it is advantageous to mix the caramel ingredients under shear to create small fat globules. During this shearing, the proteins will aid in creating the emulsion by being absorbed at interfacial surface between the fat droplet and the aqueous syrup phase. In addition to the emulsification ability of casein proteins, adding surfactants, such as lecithin or monoglycerides, is common in commercial formulas.

Preshearing the caramel mix creates a finer dispersion of the colloidal casein in solution and a more-stable caramel structure. Since the destabilization, or coagulation, of the proteins during heating creates the network of protein, a fine dispersion of the colloidal casein ensures a smooth-textured protein. A poor dispersion may lead to a caramel with a noticeable graininess.

When using milk with a high water content, this mixing may not be useful as the viscosities will be too low to maintain the created emulsion. To compensate, stabilizers such as phosphate salts can help keep the proteins in solution during the cooking. Slowly adding milk to the cooking vessel during the boil also aids in keeping the colloidal solution of protein in a finely distributed state and helps ensure a smooth-textured caramel.

Caramels find tremendous popularity as a stand-alone eating candy and as an ingredient in other products. "Ingredient applications are endless and left to the minds of creative food-product developers," says Sullivan. "Caramel can enhance the eating experience of any snack or dessert by adding a soft and chewy component to something that is creamy or crisp."

Textures for a caramel chew candy will differ from a caramel used in an enrobing application or as an inclusion for a baking application. Understanding how to create varying textures is paramount when developing caramel products. Caramels with very different eating qualities are possible by varying ratios of sugar, corn syrup and milk protein. "Textural differences are accomplished by manipulation of cooking temperature, moisture content and ingredients. For instance, caramel with higher fat content will be shorter and provide less tailing," adds Sullivan. "The desired finished-product attributes, which include texture, flavor, color and moisture content, will dictate the processing parameters."

While traditional chewy caramels generally are nongrained single-phase confections, grained products are available that are marketed as caramels. In general, graining makes the caramel less chewy, more resistant to cold flow, creates a shorter texture and reduces stickiness when chewing.

Caramels, being single-phase confections with low water activity (aw), will pick up moisture, which promotes graining. A good wrapper helps prevent moisture pickup and maintain the shape of the cut piece.

The art of selling air Nougats obtain their unique structure and texture from yet another ingredient in the confectioner's arsenal: air. In these chewy confections, we now take our basic ingredients of sugar and corn syrup and provide structure to this flowable syrup by cooking to a high temperature and introducing thousands of minute air cells into the candy mass. The air cells distribute the syrup over a much larger surface area, which helps reduce stickiness and contributes a desirable, light texture to these nongrained, firm, chewy confections.

Adding frappé introduces air cells into traditional hard nougats. Used in many confectionery products, manufacturers prepare frappé by dissolving dried egg albumen or some other whipping agent in water and mixing it with a combination of sucrose and corn syrup. They beat the mixture at a high speed until a foam is created. Although egg albumen is most commonly used, other whipping agents based on hydrolyzed soy protein or hydrolyzed dairy proteins are available, as is gelatin. Incorporating other colloidal agents, such as starch or pectin, into the formula also provides more structure to the foam. Since hard nougats are nongrained confections, frappé recipes tend to be low in sugar and high in corn syrup. High conversion (63 DE) corn syrup, invert sugar or honey may be included to help lower the viscosity of the mixture and facilitate aeration.

Once the frappé is prepared, another separate syrup made of corn syrup and sucrose is prepared. The syrup's typical cook temperature will range from 265? to 285?F, depending on final texture desired in the finished product. In addition to the basic corn syrup/sugar mixtures, some "nougat-like" confections, such as fruit chews, may contain real fruit juice for flavor and label appeal. But, cautions Foss: "Make sure you add color, because cooking certain fruit juices will brown on you. Flavors are still used, but as top-notes to accent the flavor that the juice can't bring by itself."

Once prepared, manufacturers carefully add the syrup to the frappé. Adding it too quickly, however, may lead to denaturation of the egg albumen in the frappé, resulting in white flecks of coagulated protein in the product. Finally, adding a small amount of fat, such as coconut oil, provides lubricity both for edibility and to assist in ease of cutting. Dairy butter works, but the finished product's moisture levels might need adjustment, depending on the desired texture. Other ingredients, such as flavors, nuts or dried fruit, also may be added. Inclusions, like nuts, often enhance the nougat's eating qualities by breaking up the continuity of the nougat matrix and providing an easier chew for the consumer.

Similar to caramels, hard nougats are nongrained and have low moisture and low aw. They tend to pick up moisture, so a good wrapper must protect the finished product.

Planting the seeds While people mostly associate nongrained nougats with chewy confections, grained nougats can also form the basis of some of these treats. These are similar to products such as taffy or fruit-chew-type candies. While they're still formulated with a high proportion of corn syrup, they may be seeded with confectioners' powdered sugar or fondant-icing sugar to initiate graining. Additionally, instead of aeration by addition of frappé, these products may be aerated by pulling via a pulling machine as is done with taffy. This folds the candy mass over on itself many times over and introduces air pockets, creating the aeration and at the same time promoting the graining process. Graining the product leads to a nougat with a shorter texture but still a high degree of chewiness due to the high ratio of corn syrup and low moisture. Finally, these chewy, nougat-like candies may include other colloidal agents, such as gelatin, maltodextrins or other gums to provide more firmness and a longer-lasting chew.

It's good for you Chewy confections are also useful as nutrient or nutraceutical delivery systems. Examples, such as vitamin gummy candies for children, calcium-fortified caramels and "starch-blocking" fruit chews, line drug-store aisles. These products have a primary purpose: delivering a functional ingredient to the consumer in a more pleasant, good-tasting manner.

"Fortification and nutraceutical addition to confections are very sensitive topics," says Nonaka. "There are currently products in the marketplace that target very specific markets, but most do not position the product as a 'candy.' I believe this is a proper position. This is especially true where the 'active' ingredient can have a negative effect if taken in too high a level."

When formulating confections as nutrient carriers, the developer must consider additional criteria. While flavor is always a primary factor, inclusion levels for nutrients and nutraceuticals should be at a safe amount when consumed in a reasonable quantity of the "candy." At the same time, the manufacturer must be able to guarantee the declared level of the nutrient on the product label.

As an example, when using a candy to deliver vitamins, consider the processing temperature's effect on the nutrient. Although the acidic flavor of vitamin C may go well with fruit-flavored gummy candies, the typical depositing temperature of about 160? to 180?F may easily destroy the potency of a large percentage of the nutrient. Loss of shelf life for the product also is expected, so it's wise for manufacturers to assay their products for active vitamin content remaining in the product.

The nutrient's effect on the candy's structure is another area for concern. For example, consider the sensitive nature of milk proteins in a caramel. Adding an acidic ingredient, such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C), may create a potential for destabilization of the proteins and loss of the smooth caramel texture.

Adding large quantities of minerals or any dry ingredient after cooking the candy also may negatively affect the original form. Including insoluble minerals, such as calcium carbonate, in a caramel matrix requires substantial mixing. Vigorous mixing could potentially destabilize the emulsions of a confectionery system, leading to an oiling out of the matrix. Even if the ingredient is successfully added to the matrix, it may be realized later that the texture is nowhere near the original texture of the unfortified caramel due to the inclusion of the fine insoluble particles. In fact, such particles may act as nuclei for sucrose crystallization to occur, creating a completely different eating texture as well as potentially changing shelf-life aspects.

Solubility of added nutrients should also be considered. Water-soluble vitamins are easily incorporated into most confections but, again, the nutrient's stability must be examined. Also, Fenstermacher states: "Minerals may be added to a candy for health or hygiene benefits. If you want clarity in the candy, it's important to use water-soluble mineral sources, such as lactates and gluconates."

Finally, realize that adding vitamins and other nutrients will likely affect the candy's flavor. One option to explore is microencapsulated vitamins and minerals. Not only does the encapsulation help mask off-flavors of many common fortification nutrients, it also helps prevent ingredient interactions and ensures stability of the ingredients over the product's shelf life.

Chewy confections represent a wide range of products in the candy world. In addition to the familiar candies that we treat ourselves to, they also are finding their way into nontraditional candy-like products, such as supplement and nutraceutical products. Many chewy confections also offer great versatility as ingredients in other food applications and present opportunities to create new and unique product categories. In the end however, it's the chewy confections' great tastes, unique textures and fun, interactive eating qualities that give them such mass appeal.

Peter Dea is a senior food technologist for Mattson & Co., Foster City, CA, (www. foodcom.com/mattson), an independent developer of new food and beverage products. In addition to numerous years of product-development experience in confectionery and chocolate products, Dea is an instructor in courses specializing in confectionery and chocolate technology.

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