Breads on the Rise

Bakers need to be aware that bread is not "out" -- in fact, it is very much "in." The low-carb craze is changing the way consumers think about carbohydrates, and in turn, bakers should respond by formulating breads that contain more of the better-for-you carbohydrates, such as dietary fiber, and fewer refined carbohydrates.

"Eat more whole grains" will likely be the buzz phrase in the coming year as forces in the food world unite, influencing what consumers eat on a daily basis. By no means is this new news, but when the U.S. government plans to educate consumers that not all carbohydrates are created equal, something carb counters have been preaching the past few years, you have a collective message going out to Americans, one for sure to be exploited by the media. That puts breads formulated with whole grains way ahead of the curve.

This is not to say that all breads must be "whole grain," particularly some of those that are classified as artisan, as such breads generally rely on specific refined flours. Artisan breads play a unique role in the feeding of America. After all, it is artisan breads that have invaded sandwich shops and restaurant bread baskets across the country, and quite successfully. However, advanced technologies also make it possible to boost the fiber levels in such breads without using whole-grain flour.

On the sandwich side of the business, according to a recent study by Chicago-based foodservice analyst Technomic Inc., hand-held food items, such as sandwiches, account for about one-fourth of consumer spending in foodservice. The study predicts that the market for deli, sub and hoagie sandwiches will grow 6% annually during the next three years. This is quite impressive when compared to the sale of hamburgers made with the ubiquitous "hamburger bun," which are only expected to increase less than 1% each year.

Technomic researchers explain that consumers are more concerned about their intake of total fat, saturated fat, calories and sugar in foodservice settings. They are less concerned with avoiding the general category of carbohydrates, despite considerable media attention. "Our research indicates that foodservice suppliers and operators should be aware that consumer health and nutrition concerns go well beyond carbohydrates," says Robert Goldin, executive vice president, Technomic. "While media attention has been heavily focused on carbohydrates, our research indicates that other areas are of greater concern to foodservice consumers."

Let's backtrack just a bit. On August 27, the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, appointed by the Departments of Health and Human Services and Agriculture, issued a report saying that the Food Guide Pyramid needs to be modified to help Americans make more fiber-rich choices when selecting foods from the fruit, vegetable and grains groups. For example, when choosing bread, the pyramid should "guide" consumers into picking whole grains rather than refined grains that one would get in white bread.

Why do we need more fiber? Well, about two years ago, the U.S. National Academy of Science established the first Dietary Reference Intakes for dietary fiber. For adult males, it is 38 grams per day, and for females, 25 grams per day. Unfortunately, the typical American diet only provides about half the dietary-fiber requirement.

The Advisory Committee stresses the fact that carbohydrates -- the sugars, starches and fibers found in fruits, vegetables, grains and milk products -- are an important part of a healthful diet and the major energy source in most diets. After all, sugars and starches supply energy to the body in the form of glucose, which is the only energy source for red blood cells and the preferred energy source for the brain, central nervous system, placenta and fetus, and for muscle cells when operating anaerobically.

In other words, carbohydrates are not taboo like the media has made them out to be in the past year. Indeed, they are a fundamental part of the diet. But not all carbohydrates are good for you in large amounts. Whole grains (as compared to refined grains as found in white flour) are considered a preferred carbohydrate, as they deliver the outer and inner layers of the grain.

Enough people believe in the importance of consuming whole grains and fiber that a consortium of industry, scientists and chefs joined together to the form the Whole Grains Council, Boston (www.wholegrainscouncil.org). "One of the original goals of the Whole Grains Council was to help consumers understand just what is a whole grain," says Michael Orlando, chairman, Whole Grains Council and chairman of the board, Sunnyland Mills, Fresno, CA. To meet this need, the group incorporated suggestions from members of the American Association of Cereal Chemists (AACC) and established this definition: "Whole grains or foods made from them contain all the essential parts and naturally occurring nutrients of the entire grain seed. If the grain has been processed (e.g., cracked, crushed, rolled, extruded, lightly pearled and/or cooked), the food product should deliver approximately the same rich balance of nutrients that are found in the original grain seed."

Examples of generally accepted whole-grain foods and flours include amaranth, barley (lightly pearled), brown and colored rice, buckwheat, bulgur, corn and whole cornmeal, emmer, farro, grano (lightly pearled wheat), kamut, millet, oatmeal and whole oats, popcorn, quinoa, sorghum, spelt, triticale, whole rye, whole or cracked wheat, wheat berries, and wild rice.

Food manufacturers and ingredient suppliers have also taken an active stand in raising carbohydrate awareness. For example, in July, National Starch & Chemical Company, Bridgewater, NJ, submitted a Citizen's Petition to FDA asking the agency to modify carbohydrate-content labeling on foods to create more standardization regarding carbohydrate information, allowing consumers to make better-educated food choices.

If one good thing comes out of the current low-carb craze, it is that consumers are more aware of carbohydrate choices, much like how the fat-free frenzy made consumers fat-gram conscious. And, similar to how spread manufacturers reformulated products to contain healthier fats, many of today's bread makers are reevaluating grain and carbohydrate ingredient options, choosing ones that provide increased value in terms of fiber, minerals and B vitamins.

As previously described, fiber is a different type of carbohydrate, as compared to starch and sugar. Being nondigestible, fiber has traditionally had some shortcomings in bread formulations. Many of the original fiber-enriched breads tasted like tree bark, because traditional fiber ingredients resembled their origins -- plant cellulose. Fortunately, many of today's new high-fiber ingredients can be added seamlessly to breads. Some go virtually undetected by the human palate and effectively maintain a healthy digestive and gastrointestinal system. Some can even be effortlessly used in artisan breads.

Bulgur, a quick-cooking form of whole wheat, has been cleaned, parboiled, dried, ground into particles and sifted into distinct sizes. "The result is a nutritious, versatile wheat product with a pleasant, nutlike flavor and an extended shelf life," says Orlando. "Bulgur is often confused with cracked wheat. Bulgur differs in that it has been precooked." He goes on to say that manufacturers often use it in different sizes in breads, depending on variety, but that coarse-ground bulgur wheat is most common, used anywhere from 10% to 35% flour weight, based on the style of bread. In a recent evaluation, at 25% to 50%, bulgur helped soften the crumb and keep moisture levels constant.

Another high-fiber ingredient, grano, is made from specially selected durum wheat. Through minimal processing, only a small amount of the outer bran is removed, making it high in fiber, protein and minerals. "Our grano is great for Italian-style, whole-grain breads," adds Orlando.

A white-wheat flour, Ultragrain(TM), recently introduced by ConAgra Food Ingredients, Omaha, NE, uses patent-pending milling technology on identity-preserved wheat to combine the nutritional benefits of whole grains with the processing benefits and finished baked quality of refined flour. The golden-colored flour contains as much dietary fiber as whole-grain wheat flour, 12.2 grams of fiber per 100 grams of flour (per USDA data). Refined, unenriched wheat flour, according to USDA data, contains a mere 2.7 grams of dietary fiber per 100 grams. This flour also has a higher protein level than whole-grain wheat flour (13.7% versus 10.3%).

The product can replace refined flour, providing a cost-effective substitute for manufactured fiber and resistant starches. Any formula adjustments that a baker would make when using regular whole-wheat flour should be made when substituting with white whole wheat. And unlike whole-grain wheat flour, the resulting bread has a soft, smooth texture. The label can read "whole-wheat flour."

If lowering net carbohydrates is a goal, fiber ingredients can provide an answer. The still legally undefined term "net carbohydrates," as it is currently flagged on many food-product labels, is calculated by subtracting sugar alcohols and dietary fiber from total carbohydrates. However, when lowering carbohydrates, additional ingredients are sometimes necessary to produce quality bread.

A chemical-leavening technology called EZ Dough(TM) by Astaris LLC, St. Louis, helps bakers deliver low-carb breads with the texture, appearance and volume of traditional breads. In traditional yeast-leavened breads, yeast interacts with fermentable carbohydrates during fermentation and proofing to produce carbon dioxide necessary for leavening. By contrast, this product does not require fermentable carbohydrates to produce leavening gas. "Chemical leavening agents function independently of other ingredients in the formulation, so they are not negatively affected when flour and sugar are replaced with substitutes," says Tranny Mitchell, vice president, marketing and technology.

Another low-carb-bread formulation tool, Carb-Aid® 10, is a unique blend of ingredients, including glucomannan, yeast, ascorbic acid and enzymes, from Lallemand Advanced Baking Solutions, Montreal. When used at 10% to improve dough strength, crumb texture and flavor, it allows the formulation of breads with a net carbohydrate level of 5 grams per 28-gram serving.

To partially replace some of the white flour in bread formulas, bakers can try resistant tapioca starch, such as ActiStar(TM) RT, from Cargill Food & Pharma Specialties, Minneapolis. It provides the benefits of high fiber in lower-carbohydrate formulations, significantly boosting fiber levels, since it contains about 80% dietary fiber. "Bakers can improve current products and develop new ones that will satisfy consumers with lower-net-carb products that also contain healthy levels of fiber," says R. Creager Simpson, president. "ActiStar has a low water-holding capacity, permitting high levels of inclusion with few formulation changes and a nongummy texture. Since tapioca, the source of resistant starch in ActiStar, is the blandest of all starches, it doesn't detract from the desired taste, texture or appearance of finished products." This ingredient is manufactured under an exclusive license granted by MGP Ingredients Inc. (MGPI), Atchison, KS.

These two companies also produce and market a new resistant-starch product called Fibersym(TM) HA, derived from high-amylose corn, that can reduce net carbohydrates in breads. "Driven by significant interest in lower-net-carbohydrate food products, demand for resistant starch has risen dramatically," says Mike Trautschold, executive vice president of marketing and sales, MGPI. "Based on this demand, we believe Fibersym HA will fulfill some unique customer requirements, particularly in products that traditionally have a corn base."

This resistant starch delivers more than 70% dietary fiber. The starch's low water-holding capacity allows high levels of inclusion with minimal formulation changes. Its neutral flavor, smooth texture and white color does not detract from the desired taste, texture or appearance of finished products, according to Trautschold. It is listed on ingredient statements as "food starch-modified" or "modified corn starch."

Fiber fortification of breads can be achieved with sources other than grain. Derived from citrus pulp, Citri-Fi(TM) from Fiberstar Inc., Willmar, MN, is an enhanced, clean-tasting, natural citrus fiber that delivers more than 74% of total dietary fiber. What sets it apart from other fibers is its mechanism of binding water, enabling it to also function as a highly effective water-management tool, according to the company. It inhibits moisture migration, resulting in more-uniform distribution of moisture in frozen doughs and fresh products. The ability to inhibit moisture migration reduces staling and enhances product quality and eating qualities, such as freshness, taste, aroma, grain and crust characteristics, in conventional and high-fiber breads over an extended period.

"To meet our customers' growing demand for higher-fiber breads, Fiberstar has developed new flour-replacement products that can be used to turn virtually any existing bread formula into either a 'good source' or an 'excellent source' of dietary fiber bread by simply substituting Citri-Fi-based flour-replacement products for flour on a one-to-one basis," says Dale Lindquist, president and CEO. "This makes it very simple for a baker to quickly roll out high-fiber versions of their existing bread products while maintaining the same or improved volume, structure, taste, texture and shelf life."

Soy is another potential fiber source. For example, Fibred-Maryland Inc., LaVale, MD, markets a fiber ingredient called FI-1 Soy Fibre®, a fine, white powder extracted from the hulls of soybeans. It is approximately 92.5% insoluble fiber, and was first used in the development of Less Bread®, a nationally licensed brand of low-calorie, high-fiber bread.

The company originally designed it for the baking industry, says Dennis Drake, manager of technical services. "Because of its extremely consistent particle size and shape, it imparts excellent mouthfeel characteristics to baked goods. It can be used to reduce calories and net carbs in breads, at the same time it promotes a soft crumb and enhances freshness," he notes. "FI-1 Soy Fibre can also increase the shelf life of bread because it retains up to three times its weight in water. Tests have demonstrated improved oven-spring in white pan breads with the addition of just 2%." In general, with most bread mixes, adding 18% to 20% of this ingredient on a flour-weight basis enables a high-fiber claim to be made.

Some ingredients provide much more than fewer net carbs and increased dietary fiber. For example, flaxseed not only boasts a high level of dietary fiber, it is also rich in omega-3 fatty acids. About 42% of flaxseed is oil; however, the oil's fatty-acid profile is distinct when compared to other fat ingredients. It is low in saturated fatty acids (around 9% of total weight) and high (57%) in polyunsaturated alpha linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3. Omega-3 fatty acids are associated with retina and brain development in infants and, in adults, have been shown to reduce the risk of certain cancers, hypertension, cardiovascular disease and stroke.

When it comes to fiber content, what makes flaxseed stand out is the generous quantities of both soluble and insoluble fiber. Dietary fiber, in total, accounts for about 28% of the dry weight of full-fat flaxseed. Of that, about one-third is soluble fiber, which is associated with lowering blood cholesterol. The other two-thirds is insoluble fiber, which helps prevent constipation.

Flaxseed is marketed as the intact whole seed, which can be used in or on top of breads, much like nuts and seeds, or as milled, or ground, flaxseed. Milled flaxseed is the most commonly used form in American breads; however, when formulating rustic, hearty breads or European artisan breads, bakers often add whole seed. This requires a one- to two-hour presoak in water for easier blending. The soaking process causes some of the soluble gums on the seed surface to dissolve, so to make the most of flaxseed's healthful benefits, the soaking water can be used as part of the liquid component for dough formation.

There's a bright future for inulin and fructooligiosaccharides (FOS) in breads. About a year ago, FDA accepted Monmouth Junction, NJ-based Sensus America LLC's request that inulin be considered GRAS. "We know that this is an important step in bringing Americans closer to the many physiological and functional benefits that inulin offers," says Bryan Tungland, vice president of scientific and regulatory affairs. Inulin, a soluble, prebiotic fiber, has been shown to improve calcium uptake in the body and to promote healthy microflora in the gastrointestinal tract.

In April 2003, the Dutch Public Health Ministry approved a "healthy colon" claim for Frutafit®, Sensus's inulin ingredient, in breads baked by Bakkerij Veenhuis, a unit of Royal Ahold N.V., The Netherlands. The company markets the product under the brand Vitaalbrood®, which means "vital bread." Sensus worked with the company in developing the scientific data necessary to support the following claim: "A daily consumption of three slices of Vitaalbrood bread, which contains 5 grams of Frutafit per 100 grams of bread, creates a well-balanced intestinal flora that leads to optimal colon functioning by selectively stimulating the growth of Bifidobacterium." Bifidobacteria controls intestinal pH by liberating lactic and acetic acid and select short-chain fatty acids. The induced acidic environment inhibits the growth of certain pathogenic bacteria types.

Research shows that Frutafit may be added to bread at levels up to 8% and still result in an acceptable bread with good sensory properties. Inulin supplementation requires minor modifications during baking (e.g., reduction of baking temperature to prevent   excess browning), but minimal inulin losses occur during bread production.

BakeFlora(TM) from Roxlor International, Wilmington, DE, a synergistic blend of inulin; oligofructose; a proprietary, enriched, sprouted mung bean extract; and acesulfame-K is made with standard inulin, while BakeFlora HP is made with high-performance inulin. Both products have a sweetness equivalent to sucrose. These ingredients are clean, white to off-white, odor-free powders. They help accentuate the flavors of a formulation but impart no perceptible aftertaste. When incorporated into formulations, they are listed on ingredient statements as "inulin, acesulfame-K."

Resistant starches lower glycemic response when substituted for flour and other rapidly digested carbohydrates. They assist in maintaining healthy blood-glucose levels and healthy digestive systems, potentially reducing the risk of developing chronic conditions, such as diabetes, obesity and cancer.

A specialty resistant starch, Hi-maize(TM), marketed by National Starch, has application in all types of breads and has been shown to improve the quality of bread while boosting fiber content. Derived from corn, Hi-maize 260 holds significantly less water than other fiber sources. High water absorption can cause problems during dough processing, such as stickiness, which results in difficult-to-handle dough that does not expand sufficiently during the rising process. Because it holds less water, it does not compete for the water needed by other ingredients, such as the proteins that form gluten.

This resistant starch is composed of small, crystalline particles, which contribute to uniform cell size in bread dough, thereby improving structure. According to the company, this helps products avoid the heavy, dense structure associated with high-fiber bread. It has a clean, neutral taste and is white, which allows incorporation into all types of breads, even white, where it is undetectable by the consumer. When added to a high-fiber bread formulation, the ingredient replaces an equal amount of flour. Some adjustment in the water might be needed, as well as the possible addition of some wheat gluten. Scientists at the company have made a basic white bread that contains 8.4% Hi-maize 260. The finished product qualifies as a "good source of fiber" because it contains 2.5 grams of fiber per 50-gram serving. To produce "high-fiber" bread, bakers need to replace 16.8% of flour with the ingredient.

One of the first bakeries to introduce low-carb bread, French Meadow Bakery, Minneapolis, recently unveiled an entire line of yeast-free, organic, reduced-carbohydrate baked goods made with Phase 2 Starch Neutralizer®, supplied by Pharmachem Laboratories Inc. Kearny, NJ. The line, which is marketed under the Carb Watcher(TM) brand, includes sourdough and multigrain dinner rolls, bread and tortilla shells.

An extract of the white kidney bean, Phase 2 is used in several popular weight-loss supplements. Studies show the ingredient neutralizes the digestive enzyme alpha-amylase in vitro. Inhibiting this enzyme may prevent the digestion of complex carbohydrates and may decrease the number of carbohydrate calories absorbed, potentially promoting weight loss, according to the manufacturer.

The University of Maryland, College Park, MD, and Chesapeake Fields Farmers LLC, Chestertown, MD, have jointly created a low-carb, low-calorie, high-protein, artisan-quality bread. "Most lean breads on the market have a reduced carbohydrate count of 8 grams per slice, compared to 12 for traditional breads," says Y. Martin Lo, associate professor of food bioprocess engineering, University of Maryland. "The problem is, these new products pack on extra calories," (due to fat and protein replacing net carbs instead of fiber).

Lo, in conjunction with Chesapeake Fields, tested more than 60 strains of wheat and isolated those yielding the best diet-friendly qualities when baked, based on the increase in dietary fiber. Those strains, narrowed down to two, are the core of the company's all-natural, high-protein baked goods.

People don't just want good-for-you, they want good-tasting breads, too. Enter the artisan-bread revolution. So, what exactly is artisan? There is no official definition, but "handcrafted" has become quite synonymous with "artisan." In fact, the handcrafted breads made fresh daily in Europe set the standard for what some call artisan. However, artisan breads vary by country, from France's crispy baguette to Italy's crusty ciabatta and Greece's dense pita. Within our own continent, the unleavened tortilla has climbed ranks with its new name -- wrap -- and let's not forget San Francisco sourdough.

In a strict sense, artisan breads are based on only flour, water, salt and natural leavening (except in the case of the tortilla), with the possible addition of cheeses, fruits, nuts, spices and/or vegetables for flavoring purposes. Unlike standard pan breads, artisan breads come in various shapes and sizes. While purists decry mass-produced artisan breads, technology has taken steps to allow large-scale production of breads that maintain the appeal of handcrafted loaves, with mixers replicating hand kneading and deck ovens standing in for brick hearths. (For additional information, see "Artisan Breads," in the February 1999 issue of Food Product Design.)

Flour is the key component of artisan breads. Artisan bakers use clear, untreated, unbleached, unbromated flour. The flour should not contain the dough conditioner azodicarbonamide, as it gives bread a closed crumb, which is contrary to the open structure and distinctive characteristics of artisan loaves. Lower-protein flours can provide better quality, easier make-up, tolerance to long fermentation, improved crumb structure and a more-natural-tasting end product.

An endless number of artisan breads exist, everything from focaccia to crusty, Central European rye. And many formulas are suited to whole-grain or high-fiber variations. Within the next few years, the variety of breads and bread's popularity will definitely continue to rise.

Donna Berry, president of Chicago-based Dairy & Food Communications, Inc., a network of professionals in business-to-business technical and trade communications, has been writing about product development and marketing for nine years. Prior to that, she worked for Kraft Foods in the natural-cheese division. She has a B.S. in Food Science from the University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign. She can be reached at [email protected] .

Back to top