Tea: Nectar and Ambrosia

Tea, once associated with the mystic and mysterious Far East, now seems more akin to a mundane cup of hot black tea, perhaps with milk, to warm us on a winter's day on the East Coast, or tall iced tea to cool us down on a sweltering Arizona summer afternoon. But tea is, and can be, far more than this.

The last 10 years has brought a coffee revolution, but tea has, for some reason, lagged behind. Is this because tea purveyors have desired a more traditional image, or coffee has wealthy patrons with deep pockets for advertising budgets? Or has this occurred because tea has not hidden behind the complicated preparation paraphernalia found in most coffee bars and cafés? Probably a bit of both. And whilst most people, if asked, can tell you the difference between an espresso, a cappuccino and a mocha, few would feel confident in the differences between jasmine, sencha, Darjeeling and honeybush tea. This needs to change!

Tea was discovered, so the story goes, by the Chinese Emperor Shen Nung in 2737 B.C. Whilst taking a break from travel and resting under a tree, he was boiling his drinking water (the Chinese already knew that boiling water made it safer to drink) and leaves from the tree -- a large tea plant -- blew into the boiling water. The emperor found the resulting brew refreshing and invigorating, and the beverage tea was born.

Wild varieties of the cultivated China tea plant (Camellia sinensis) -- not to be confused with the tea tree (Melaleuca alterniflora) -- were discovered in Assam (North India) and the colonial British established plantations in North and South India and Bangladesh. Tea has since spread to Sri Lanka (the famous Ceylon), Indonesia, East Africa and South America. From its origins in China, where people originally drank tea as a health tonic, its popularity has grown beyond all recognition.

Tea comes in as many forms as wine and beer and makes a perfect accompaniment to breakfast, lunch and dinner. Madam Bollinger famously stated that Champagne is the alcoholic beverage for all-day consumption, tea is the nonalcoholic beverage for any and every occasion.

Tea, in the strictest form, is derived solely from the evergreen bush Camellia sinensis. Rooibos (redbush tea), maté, chamomile and honeybush are all completely different botanic species and thus are not "tea." Different subvarieties of C. sinensis, climate, soil variations, elevation and processing conditions all contribute to the production of white, green, oolong and black variants.

Green tea consists primarily of the leaves and tender shoots of C. sinensis with the endogenous enzymes heat inactivated immediately after withering (the first stage of manufacture). This stops oxidation during further processing and maintains the fresh, green characteristics. Steam is used to make Japanese styles (sencha, etc.). The manufacture of Chinese-style green tea uses heated surfaces, for example woks and drums. After enzyme inactivation, processors shape and dry the leaves. White tea is really just the unopened leaf buds of C. sinensis.

Black tea primarily comes from C. sinensis assamica. After withering, processing disrupts (breaks) the cells by either traditional rolling or cut-tear-curl processing (think of an old-fashioned mangler with teeth), which makes the small-particle "tea-bag" tea. Cellular disruption allows enzymes and polyphenols to mix, and oxidation (like apple browning after the fruit is cut and exposed to air) -- commonly, but inaccurately, termed fermentation -- produces the characteristic black-tea color and flavors. Drying completes the transformation and results in the stable leaf-tea product that we all know and love.

Oolong and pouchong sit halfway between green and black tea in oxidation terms, and Taiwan (formally Formosa) and China are famous for this variety. Processors do not use full leaf disruption, but bruise the leaves, traditionally by walking barefoot upon the laid-out leaves, which starts slow fermentation and produces the typically flowery aromas of oolong teas. Interestingly, the processing of tea, coca and tobacco have parallels, but that is a different story!

In recent years, westerners have been catching up with what people in the East have always known, and tea has become synonymous with good health. Tea polyphenols have antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral properties, so Shen Nung's drinking water was even safer than he knew! Tea polyphenols act as nature's breath fresheners by interacting with and trapping sulfur compounds known to contribute to halitosis. Polyphenols' antibacterial properties also aid oral health. Tea also reduces plaque formation and increases dental health due to its fluoride content. Medical studies have also shown that black tea works synergistically with antibiotics and can have a positive impact on heart health. Green tea has been shown to help treat and prevent leukemia and obesity -- both huge problems on a global scale. Not only is tea on the increase in food and beverages, tea has found it's way into almost every cosmetic, from perfume to lipstick to shampoo. Tea is truly the panacea of all ills, making us look and feel good.

Tea contains caffeine and gives tea its refreshing and reviving properties, but we also drink tea to relax and reduce stress. Tea also contains theanine, an amino acid unique to tea (and a certain rare Russian mushroom) that acts as a beta-blocker and antagonist to caffeine.

Product developers, research chefs and tea fans need to know the available types of tea, what the varieties taste like, and successful food and drink combinations. So, a summary of the types of tea and major flavors associated with them follows. Tea tasters are connoisseurs of the industry and can differentiate not only quality, but also origin (sometimes down to the garden), season and manufacture faults (if any). These descriptions and some background information should help to guide product-development endeavors.

Green tea caused a storm in London when first imported in the 17th Century and was thought to be the scourge of modern society. Most people drink it straight (never with milk), but in Morocco green tea is drunk with sugar and mint -- the more important the guest, the sweeter the brew. Green tea comes in two main styles: Chinese and Japanese. However, several different types of green tea exist.

China-style green. Herby aromas dominate in this type due to the heat processing. The leaves appear dark-green, almost smoky. The types range from Longjing ("dragon well") -- one of the most expensive teas in the world -- which tea masters shape by hand to resemble small, green bananas, to very smoky, mass-produced gunpowder tea, in small, tight balls that unfurl in the cup.

Japan-style green. Highly processed and technologically the most advanced tea in the world, Japanese green tea is a diverse-tasting group. While it dries, processors steam and shape sencha -- the most common Japanese variety -- to create shiny green leaves that yield fresh, pale-green liquor when infused. Umami, the fifth taste, dominates with fresh vegetal notes and greenness. Roasting produces bancha, nutty and full in flavor with a pale-brown infusion. Growers shade gyokura during growth to modulate the astringent taste and increase the concentration of sweet amino acids. It is of the highest-quality teas, and when ground to a fine powder produces matcha, the tea of the Japanese tea ceremony. Gen-mai cha is green tea and toasted rice, which gives the liquor fullness in the mouth to compliment the fresh green notes.

White. This type comes from the unopened buds of the tea plant. Careful processing retains the leaf hairs that give this tea the appearance of whiteness, though this is actually green tea. The flavor is light and fresh, the liquor pale and refreshing. White tea is currently much in vogue as an ingredient in antiaging creams due to the high catechin content. But beware: More "white tea" is sold than is grown, and imitations are common.

Oolong. Formosa, the historical name for Taiwan, and China are best known for oolong tea. Oolong's distinct, floral character defies description and is a mysterious and acquired taste -- a unique experience.

People drink black tea straight or with milk or lemon. On the streets of India, people often sweeten hot or cold black tea with spices. Like green tea, many specific varieties of black tea are available. Each different geographical region that produces this type lends its name to the tea.

Assam. People often consider full, malty Assam a self-drinker -- meaning that it does not require blending to provide an acceptable brew. The drinker of a strong cup of this North Indian tea will feel a puckering in the mouth for a few minutes after sipping due to the high level of astringent polyphenols.

Darjeeling. Growers cultivate Darjeeling in North India nestled in the Himalayan foothills. This floral, sweet tea, often with lemony hints, is called the "Champagne of teas."

Sri Lankan. Both high-grown and low-grown Sri Lankan tea varieties (known as Ceylon in old parlance) take geographical designations, such as Uva and Nuwara Eliya. These teas have a distinctive flavor with hints of oil of wintergreen and bright, yellowish liquors.

China. Keemun, the most popular of the Chinese black teas, adds raisin notes to the aroma.

East African. These black teas form a broad grouping. Most people know Kenyan, Ugandan, Zimbabwean and Ethiopian teas for their thickness, fullness and redness. Kenyan is probably the best example of this type.

West African. West Africa, Burundi and Cameroon produce good, solid black teas, though not as full in flavor and color as East African teas.

Indonesian. Spicy teas are the name of the game in Indonesia. Liquors are red and have pleasant cardamom notes.

South American. Down in South America, Argentinean and Brazilian teas brew bright-red and retain good clarity when made into iced tea. Some taste exists, but these often focus on the infusion appearance.

Although true teas are either varieties of black or green, the world of tea doesn't end there. Scented teas add variations on aroma to both green and black types. Also, different methods of presentation, such as antiquated brick teas and more modern extracts, have evolved over the years.

Scented. Both green and black form the basis of scented teas. Tea has a great ability to pick up aromas, both good and bad. Never store tea next to strong aromas, such as spices or laundry products. Manufacturers create scented tea by mixing low-moisture tea with the desired aroma (floral blooms, etc.) to transfer the scent from the source to the tea.

Green tea-based examples include jasmine and osmanthus. Both of these flower-based teas go especially well with spicy food and at the end of an ethnic meal, especially Chinese or Thai (particularly with jasmine rice). The presence of flowers is not necessarily an indicator of quality -- the best jasmine teas go through the scenting process seven times and contain no flowers at all.

The best-known scented black teas are probably Earl Grey and Lady Grey, both based on oil of bergamot (bitter orange). Russian Earl Grey is so aromatic, it is almost like drinking perfume. Rose Congo consists of keemun China black tea with rose petals to add flavor. Smoky Lapsang souchong is sometimes called caravan tea, as it was originally transported by camel train and picked up the smokiness of the campfires at night. Today, tea makers burn pine logs and sometimes resin-impregnated rope under tea held in trays, to give it an intentionally smoky aroma and taste.

Compressed. Brick tea, also known as compressed tea, was originally green in nature but compressing and long journeys often caused a deterioration of the tea and oxidation turned the compressed mass darker in appearance. It is broken off in large pieces and infused. Brick tea is more of a novelty these days and is more an objet d'art rather than a tea for drinking.

Puer. This small-volume, premium product is only manufactured in China. Tea makers bury and "compost" tea for a period of weeks. The action of bacteria and fungal species converts some of the colorless polyphenols into red pigments and modifies the aroma. Puer tastes composted and vegetal with fermented notes and often a slight musty edge -- but it's not as unpleasant as it sounds.

Tea extracts. The term "instant tea" makes many consumers think "cheap and low quality," thus "soluble tea extract" is the more accurate and preferable descriptor. Soluble tea, like soluble coffee and purified extracts of herbs and spices, is a convenience product that has a definite place in food and beverage preparation due to its consistency and stability.

Soluble tea starts with leaf tea or freshly plucked leaves and is manufactured to be either hot-water soluble for drinking hot, as in vending machine applications, or cold-water-soluble. Manufacturers consider the latter the tea ingredient of choice in most canned and bottled iced teas. Soluble teas have all the characteristics of leaf teas with the convenience of a concentrated liquid or powder format. Product designers can also source natural, water-based tea aromas, captured during the manufacture of soluble tea or directly from leaf teas. These products add tea flavor without adding any caffeine or carbohydrates. These colorless ingredients also do not compromise product appearance, but add tea character and lift the sweetness of the drink or dish.

Tea manufacturing and culinary use combine both art and science. The Chinese have a saying: "Rocket science is easy ... Tea science is hard." Tea as a beverage is endlessly flexible and teas can be matched with food and even included in food matrices as carriers of all that great flavor.

Most tea drinks consist of blends where the ingredients compliment each other. For example, English breakfast is mainly Kenyan tea and malty Assams while Irish breakfast includes Assams and Ceylons. By themselves, many of these are self-drinkers. This is of course a personal choice -- there is no right or wrong combination or preference. Indian-style chai is a great pick-me-up on both hot and cold days, and its delicate sweet and spicy nature makes it very soothing. Light green teas and Darjeelings lend themselves to thoughtful moments, and gutsy Assams are great invigorators. Tea works very well as an alcoholic mixer. Try iced Ceylon with gin, smoky Lapsang with bourbon or vodka with Chinese green tea. Original tea cocktails (or "mocktails") can enhance any drinks menu.

Tea ably accompanies food, hot or cold. Smoked salmon works well with Japanese green teas, smoky Lapsangs and elegant Ceylons. Chefs can match rich game meat with rich, dark Kenyan teas. Ceylon pairs with fried and grilled meats. Sausages with high-grown Ceylon Uva becomes a match made in heaven. Spicy ethnic cuisines go well with all types of tea. Jasmine tea works with Chinese and Thai food, Assams and Darjeeling with Indian food, and West African or Indonesian black tea is a wonderful accompaniment to spicy Mexican dishes. As after-dinner drinks, jasmine, mint, and Darjeeling cleanse the palate and aid digestion.

Tea as a food ingredient As an ingredient, tea can provide both color and flavor (taste plus aroma). It maintains those characteristics even through freezing and baking. Product designers can involve tea from the beginning to the end, from marinades to stir-frying. As a light, mild alternative to other stir-fry oils, try tea oil.

People wishing to avoid caffeine (for example, those on the Atkins diet) can rapidly infuse tea for a few seconds, discard the water, then reinfuse the tea leaves or bag and use this liquor in recipes -- a tip based on good science, but developed by a chef for general usage.

The Japanese use green tea in most food categories, including confectionery, sweets and candy products, dairy products (such as ice cream and milk-based drinks), jelly products and even bakery. These service the local taste for green tea, but can also provide great inspiration for chefs and product developers. For example, the taste of Darjeeling tea works well with sweet bakery goods, such as chocolate chip cookies. Tea can match with sweet or savory -- the only limit is imagination! Soluble tea can aid those who require volumes of product and the peace of mind that comes from knowing that the ingredient is stable to heating, freezing and many other food-processing methods.

It is important though to know that tea -- especially green tea -- can be susceptible to oxidation, which can impact flavor. The unaware product developer may find that color can degrade from green to brown. To prevent these issues, avoid exposure to oxygen by using inert atmospheres, low temperatures, active packaging or oil bases to maintain a longer shelf life, if required.

Tea serves as one of the most drinkable beverages in the world, a most versatile ingredient in our dishes, and the perfect companion to each meal. Enjoy the ambrosia and nectar that is available to us all, every day!

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